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I 2nd Titan. They can be a bit pricey, but they're good guys and know what they're doing. One of their guys has a 1000hp 2J MK3 and from the times I've dealt with them they do keep mk3 stuff in stock.

Definitely make sure it's oil before taking it apart. Like everyone else has said, it could be power steering fluid. Toyotas use ATF (at least all the ones I've owned have). I had two leaks there and after I fixed the oil leak (valve cover gaskets) I still get power steering fluid on the...

Let me know when you're ready to sell. ;)

The only fitment problem I could see is if it's reversed. It is a little hard to tell which way it goes when you're getting ready to install. I thought I was having fitment issues for a minute, then I turned it around and it fit great.

Congrats. I loved seeing your car in person at the bowling alley last year. Wish I could have made it out as that was only 20 minutes from my house.

Top nut is the most likely culprit. 17mm IIRC. It could also be a bad bushing in the lower mount. It's part of the strut but can be ordered independently. Or loose mounting nuts (12mm)... I'd just double check all nuts/bolts in that area and take it for a drive. I was just pushing...

Does the $600 include new upper mounts and new bump stops? ~$350-$450 for decent struts ~$250-$300 for springs ~$100 for new hardware (upper mounts/boots) ------------------- $750 give or take Coilovers would include better upper mounts, be height adjustable, and cost ~$400 more (50&#37...

If it's knocking then most likely something is loose. Worn struts give you that Caddy float feeling. If you are going to replace them and are even thinking about coilovers, then go coilover. It doesn't cost that much more than a proper replacement strut/spring set with new uppers/bump stops.

Made a world of difference for me. The lower hose was my only boost leak. Great product and fits perfectly. The included clamps are fine, but you can upgrade to t-bolts from driftmotion for cheap if you don't like worm drive. FWIW the included clamps have lasted 18 months so far and haven't...

With that many codes it's not going to be simple. Start working on them 1 by 1 and you'll have it running great in no time. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=26

UPDATE: Well, I had to say it. I checked mine this morning due to the 52 staying on the last few days and the rear 'behind the starter' KS broke in two. At least I know for sure what it was now.

Battery: Use at least 4 gauge wire and put it in a sealed/vented enclosure. Fusebox: Just leave all wiring routed the same. Use the same gauge wire and totally replace the wire if you have to extend anything, don't leave splices mid-wire as they'll just be weak points later.

Follow the piping from the intake manifold (pipe that says 3000 on top connects to the throttle body) all the way back to the turbo. In your way should be the fender(upper piping goes through this) and the intercooler (looks like a small, chunky, radiator and sits in front of the radiator).

I would check for a boost leak before looking at the fuel system. If you haven't at least tightened every single clamp on your IC pipes then you can't be sure (even then you're only 50% sure because you could have a cracked hose). The hardest ones to reach are the most likely culprit.

The KYB bump stops/upper mounts are the way to go to save some $$$. IIRC the 'insulator' comes with the upper mounts. KYB Uppers: SM5160 (front) / SM5159 (rear) KYB Boots: SB101 (front) / SB107 (rear) I would also recommend new nuts/bolts while you're there: Front upper nut: 90177-12002 x 2...

I did forget about this one. So: 2 Negative, One to the fender next to the battery, one to the block behind the a/c compressor 2 Positive, One to the fuse box, one to the starter That's all that goes to the battery unless you have an aftermarket audio system or have wired up your own relays...

Are all cables removed? The grounds go to the fender and the block (behind the A/C compressor under the intake manifold. The positive cables should hook to the fusebox. BTW: I've found the EPC easier to follow for parts breakdowns...

I know what a standard 'exploding' battery looks like/does. Definitely not it. And I do electronics work and other than the wiring being a bit old for my taste it's fine. The only reason I think it went is just being old (just over 4 years) and the engine bay being so hot from driving ~45...

Strangest thing I ever saw/heard. It sounded like someone threw a baseball at the underside of the hood. Other than an occasional 52 KS code, nothing else is wrong with the car. Been on the new battery a couple days now and it's fine.

Why shouldn't a shop road test a car they just aligned? This is common practice at any shop. Are they just supposed to assume the alignment is close enough and give it back to a customer only to have it come back 10 minutes later?