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Has anyone else had an Optima red top 'blow up' on them? The battery was ~4 years old (1.5 in TN and 2.5 in FL). Ran around all over CFL Saturday afternoon without a problem (with A/C on so the bay was a little hotter). Get home and have to restart the car less than a minute after turning...

18-21 at idle. Stock gauge will stay pegged on low until after boost has set in.

Hate to say it but I agree with shaeff and JJ. If there was enough already wrong with the car that a 5 minute 'spirited' test drive caused that much damage then you'll have a very hard time proving that the shop did anything wrong. Or at least proving that they did enough to cause them to have...

Still 52 free? If you are I might just do the grounds this weekend.

I haven't had the time/cash to work on the car lately. I still have a braided PS hose I need to install to stop a leak. I'll probably be upgrading the grounds (all of them) in a couple weeks though.

Probably the injectors. Every Toyota I've owned has had the same loud injectors that only get louder with age (2 22RE powered, 1 7AFE, 1 5SFE, and the 7MGTE all did it). The Supra's are nothing compared to the 95 Celica (7AFE) I had, those were the loudest injectors I ever heard. The 7M is...

Not a stupid question. It's a thermistor (sensor) for the A/C system. I just know my wife is going to pull this on me one day, but with an old 944 or 280z.

Am I missing something? Injectors 2 + 6 don't fire Taking the plug from 2 and putting it on 1, 1 fires, same for 6 and 5 Plugs pulse like they should There could be only one explanation, bad injectors on 2 and 6.

What I did to mine. No leaks 1 year and ~12000 miles later. What I plan on later. Looks better and makes it easier to do the COP switch. :naughty:

I've got the DM clutch line on mine and other than the old line being a PITA to remove, it's a definite upgrade. Strange that it would leak. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but couldn't you run some teflon tape on it? I still need to find time to replace the PS line that I got from DM. And I...

The dashpot just requires a flathead screwdriver and a smallish wrench. You just make sure that the assembly still hits the stop on the side closer to the throttle body and adjust the screw that hits the dashpot. As for the TPS...

I was just messing with you about the Tiburon. My first car was a Hyundai (not by choice, but it was a good little beater). Adjust the dashpot and see what happens, if it's still vastly different then pull out a multimeter and adjust the TPS.

:aigo: Comparing a Tiburon to a Supra?????? Anyways, just let us know what it ends up being. Who knows, it could be both.

Mines an original GTE. There were quite a few frayed wires, so the grounding may help weed out some of the noise. I like the above post. Probably what's going to happen to mine as the rear is almost always the culprit when I have to unplug/plug to get the code to go away.

If the plugs didn't work for you then all that's left is the KS. Maybe the o-ring, but probably the KS. I was thinking it doesn't seat properly and over time wiggles its way loose. In mine I have to play with the plugs to get it to go away, just resetting the code always brings back a 52. Oh...

While I agree that it's there for stall prevention, it does make a noticeable difference when it's not adjusted properly or you go from one car that it's adjusted in and one that it's adjusted out. It should engine brake no matter what. If the TPS was that far out he'd have other problems...

Much better flex, but we do what we have to sometimes. The solid core was free/available at the time I decided to rewire everything and at least flexible enough to route it neatly. The intake manifold was off and I didn't have a spare car to run to the store in, so I ended up with solid core...

There's a little breather that allows the throttle plate to stay slightly open for a split second, almost like using the throttle as an extra bypass valve. It kind of leaves the revs hanging for a second or so when you let off the gas. Sounds like the 91 isn't working properly or they are just...

And I thought I was going mad. I've got mine set up with solid core RG58 50ohm coax with the shielding grounded at the ECU. I actually soldered both ends (at the plug, not onto existing wire) and it still throws a 52 every now and again. It's a lot less frequent than it used to be, but still...

I got my 14mm off amazon for ~$10. If I had known about the NAPA oring trick before I purchased a new 3rd valve cover I would have gone that route. Someone had part #'s listed for the Orings if you feel like searching, IIRC they were oil plug gaskets for some truck or you could always bring...