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That's an 89 with some older parts on it. It has the 89 steering wheel, spoiler, rear lights, and had the 89 seat belt guides.

Get the block hand cleaned, that way you can likely avoid having to replace the oil pump driveshaft bearings, which are a PITA. Just don't overtorque the TB tensioner when you're installing it, it can deform the #1 cylinder.

Guys, if you're not going to explain HOW to search, just don't post. Teach, don't whine. Try starting with this thread: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17&highlight=stage

Agreed. I have some pistons at home that are missing a significant amount of aluminum due to this stuff....

He might be able to get away with it. Should be pretty easy to tell once he has the crank out. He'll probably need new bearings too - but hell, he might be able to pick up $1 worth of plastigauge, then spend a bunch of time bolting stuff together and find a set that's within clearance. The...

Think about what they are claiming for a second. Here's this liquid, that will, without solidifying, contain thousands of PSI from cylinder ignition inside your engine. How does the physics on this work again? Hell, why not build the entire engine out of it? It's about the same level of...

If you had a restriction in there somewhere, you'll get the right pressure at idle, but it won't be able to keep up when you're under power - so your pressure drops off, and you run lean. One of the guys here had a problem like this... turned out to be spiders nesting in the fuel line while he...

Take the back off, then pry back the upholstery until you can see the bolts holding on the headrest. Unless you just want to reverse the foam ... in which case you unzip the upholstery on the bottom of the headrest, peel it back and off, the foam is a simple clamshell that comes off easily...

I set the AFR first. I'm still messing with the boost control, and it's been a couple years since I installed it. Sometimes I wish I had just stayed with my old DrJonez MBC.

Link doesn't work. Speaking as someone with coilovers and pillowball mounts, the mounts are literally just for show on the MkIII.

^This. Why borrow more heartache from another block with unknown condition parts in it? Seems like you should have at least 6 good pistons and 6 good rods already, if you're planning on transplanting them into the NA block. So what do you need the NA block for, again?

Never seen a case *that* bad, but how much blowby does your engine have, and how are your PCV lines routed? Extreme blowby (like that caused when you've melted a piston) will blow a lot of oil into the accordion hose, some of it will get sucked back in and cause white smoke, the rest will pool...

My AFR at idle varies a lot more than that... goes from about 13.9 to 15.0. It's *usually* right around 14.7, but it does waver about quite a bit.

Yes, you'll be able to tell. If it's what I think it is, the big nut on the top of the shock will be loose, and bouncing the car will let you feel it moving up and down.

Wrong region, huh? I thought *I* didn't know anything about US Geography. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Midwest

Sure, that's just a frost plug, they are cheap (a few $$$) from Toyota. I'm not sure how they are installed, I got the machine shop to put mine back in when I rebuilt the engine.

I get someone to hold the hood up, then put my hand on the top of the strut and bounce the car. Keep going until you find what's loose.

Talk about taking it to the wire though - 19 seconds left in OT before the goal.

If you drill out the existing hole, CAREFULLY, you will discover a screw already in there. It's been set at the factory for the car it was originally on, then sealed to stop us from messing with it. Personally, I'd be searching for a fuel line restriction. Crushed or plugged fuel hardline...

The drain plug is well below the leak. The bolt up on the top is just to hold on the coolant bypass pipe. It's usually plugged with a ... well, a plug. Looks like a big bolt, the threads are almost the same size as the head.