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I don't see were you tried to post this in the NA section?

They are suppose to be non-interferrence. I still believe you can get it 180 out though. If the cam gears, crankshaft, TDC on #1, and rotor pointing at #1 wire are were they are suppose to be then it should start. If you have changed the timing belt, it needs to be installed properly or the cam...

Yeah it was bad enough to use another head. Happened after a stock rod let loose. Would you think that enough material could be taken from the cradles to put a bearing in that area? The reason I ask the question is that the head in question had a lot of time put in in P&P. The head I have now...

Either one, they have to be sealed with a gasket. When you turn on your accessories it puts a little more drag on the motor and if it's not running right it will stall. Fix air leak first then see if that corrects the stalling. Important that as Yota said good grounds for everything else to...

There is suppose to be a gasket between the TB and Y pipe. Most are a thin metal with a raised neopreme gasket. If you don't have one it will suck air and possibly cause the problem you have

I have a spare head that has some damage to the camshaft bearing surfaces. Has anybody tried to maybe open those cradles and caps up enough to put a replaceable bearing in those areas?

No problem, just hope we can help you get her running. Sounds like you have the same problem that many other supra owners have.Check out the thread in general diss. Supra haters.:biglaugh:

You're going to have some block work done right, let the machine shop clean it after the work is done. I cleaned mine with degreaser to get the first layer of crud off before I took it too the shop.

You know I think somebody on Ebay makes a fuzzy thing that fits around the gas filler tube:biglaugh: My wife hates me spending the time and money on the Supra. But she really likes driving it when she has to and I hear her bragging about it to other people. She's also told me to go sleep with...

A lot easier to just get rebuilt calipers at the parts store. Sounds like yours have been neglected and you might be in for more work than you would want by rebuilding them yourself. If I remember the rebuild kits were around $15.00, and the rebuilt calipers were around $50.00 about a year ago...

I took a set of my old mounts and welded two pieces to them on the sides to make them solid. Worked great for little money. Liked the feel as Grimjack says, but its not a mod you want to do to a DD. I replaced them with the stock ones.

Could be, could be fuel filter, I think I mentioned that already. You'll have to get a FP gauge to check and see if your FP is with in tolerances. Could be the FPR, or the FP resistor or relay. There is ohm meter checks in the TSSM for those. Have you checked your TPS?

You don't adjust the timing with the timing belt. You adjust the timing with the distributor. We need to back up here. Crank it over by hand( 19mm socket on crank pulley) Don't try crank it over with the starter until you have everything lined up. I thought I mentioned that, to turn it over by...

Good old backyard mechanics still works most of the time:icon_bigg . I don't see if you have done the compression test or checked codes. Or that you have changed the oil. Some of these things Black Dyno has suggested are basic things you should do when you have a problem like yours. You have to...

Egr bracket?

Make it They Will Come:biglaugh:

Understood. But still you have to admit the savings weight wise couldn't be much. I think it (CF) would be for Bling more than #savings.

But by how much. And you'd have to make sure it would be braced well enough to avoid the flexing right? I don't think it would lower the center of gravity or weight savings by that much if you would have to brace it don't you think?

I think you got a bad solenoid. Welcome. You know we have a lot of smartasses on here right?

Can't get too lazy owning a Supra.:biglaugh: Welcome.