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You said you changed the spark plugs, what kind of plugs and did you gap them? Was there oil on the end of the plug wires? When you took off the TB, was there dirt or oil inside? Did you check the distrubritor cap and rotor? Did you have somebody check the timeing? There is several things that...

Go for it. I myself have toyed with the idea not that it's new just would like to see how a supra would perform with a SB chevy. A lot to consider though, a lot of fab work with not to much to reference from. But if you have the motor and tranny and the tools to do a lot of the work...

These guys know what they are talking about. I believe you can still have codes thrown with the light not on. You have to short the terminals like it says in the manual to get the codes. They won't reset until you disconnect the battery. There is several things that could cause your problem as...

Yeah I have them and had the same problem. Also on the front if you route them the way the stocks, thru the hole, they move around on bear metal unless you put some kind of bushing made of rubber or something. Still haven't found something to put in there to keep from rubbing the braided lines.

I have proxes. Grip pretty good on the track and seem to wear decient. You're not going to get a lot of miles on a Z rated tire. They seem to wear in the center if you don't keep the pressures up. Kindof opposite of what you would think. From what I understand with low profile tires if you don't...

I stand corrected. I couldn't remember were the other line went. Thanks for setting me straight foogoo.:icon_bigg

Not too good. I had to drive mine in Ohio a few times and on the way to Fl. a couple of times hit some snow. It wasn't to bad with the posi, but really didn't want to drive it in the salt.

232and 218. What do I get if I win.

No I'm talking about the Vac. tubes that run along the bottom of the intake parellel to the block that all the vac. lines(FPP, EGR,etc.)are connected to. He's wanting to know what went on top of the vac. canister.

Spring for the mhg, just a little extra insurance and it can be used over again as long as you don't abuse it. The arp studs are nice. How many miles on the car? Are you loosing coolant? The gurgling sound is proably the system needs burped. There are several threads here with the same prob. and...

The hole on the top of the vac canister is for a vac. switch which has two hoses and a plug in for the wirering harness. one hose goes to the can and the other goes to the little vac pipe under the intake.

Welcome. My favorite color(what I've got). Looks like she's in pretty good shape!!!

Hopfully you didn't run it out of oil:3d_frown: Check on the header side over the block, below the distrubutor, there is a single wire that goes to a round sending unit, it slides off towards the wire. Check to see if it is making good contact, its the oil sending unit. If the oil hasn't been...

Right they do not read the same what maybe normal for one maynot be normal for the next to it... Everybody complains about the gauges not being accurate. Mine normal runs a little below halfway.

Looks like CUEL nailed it pretty close too. Don't look too good Bushman, sorry.

Looking more and more like IJ was right.

He's right. I had maybe 2000 miles on a rebuild with the head done when I had a rod bearing go, had to get another head due to the cam journals being so gouged up. If you have to go that far I'd get the metal HG, just a little extra insurance over the stock HG.

I think thats what it does when it gets mixed with water.