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If it ran fine all day and just started doing it out of the blue, sounds like a loose wire, vac hose, loose AFM connection, just to add some more random BS

Why would you want one?

Were the electrodes covered in oil is what I mean by on the inside. If you get enough oil down around the plugs from leaking valve cover gaskets it can short out the plugs. The plugs can get hot and the oil will try to burn off. Maybe not smoking hot but hot enough to give you an oil burning...

Yeah the cap only goes on one way but you could still have the distributor in wrong. When you put the timming belt on did you make sure the marks on the cams lined up with the marks on the timing cover, and the #1 was TDC? If so then it shouldn't be a problem turning the crank by hand. You've...

There is several threads here with the same problem. Look at the bottom of this page.

If you are getting spark, is it sparking at the right time. Verify the timing is correct or at least close. Check to see that #1 is TDC, I take the plug out and put a pencil in the hole and watch as I turn the crank. Then take the distributor cap off and see were the rotor is pointed. Should be...

It's a 3.5" and the guy I got it from just said it was from a LS-1 motor used on many 99 models. I can get some pics up if it will help.

The center support bearing dosen't bend they will wear out. The rubber will get old and won't support like it's suppose to. Jack the car up and try to move the shaft back and forth, up and down. Shouldn't have much play.

With other Mods. it makes a difference, just the cams alone I agree with CRE, not much difference.

I've got a used one I was going to use looks good , I decided to go Speed Density. It's off a 99 LS-1

It idles ok when you first start it cold? If you've just done a rebuild it's easy to miss a vac line, a connection, or something simple I've done it several times and think I've really screwed up something to find a vac line not connected or the AFM harness not plugged in. Double check all your...

My thinking is that if the motor is warm then the rings have expanded which would provide a better seal. There is only three places that coolant enters the intake. The TB, ISC valve, and the hose that goes from the ISC to the head. Have you had the ISC valve off to look at it? I don't know of...

If they were drenched in oil on the outside , that's the valve covers leaking and would give you a burning oil smell when the car is hot. Could also cause the plugs to misfire. Did you change them? Drenched in oil on the inside of the plugs that's a different story.:nono:

If is below the header it's supposed to be capped off on the NA. For the turbo's I think it goes to cool the turbo.

Yeah it's hard to do lying on your back and hard to gauge the bearings. You might find you have to pull it anyway. At the very least the journals would have to be polished up a little on the bad cylinders.

Because of the Mods I have I presume? Question Open loop and Closed loop in simple terms because you know I'm a simple guy:biglaugh: I think I've tried to consume too much Maft-Pro stuff and have a brain loop. Thank you sir.

If you use the 3" MAF is it basically a plug and play? Or is there still some tuning involved?

I have a Targa also no shimmy up to 135mph.

Yeah that's what I was thinking it might be Finnon if he's not getting a knock from the motor. A 87 with only 78k miles wow. You would think with low miles like that the motor should be in good shape unless it's really been abused. What's the rest of the car like 87mkthr33?

Are you talking about the ends on the TB? Or were the line comes from the head you blocked off?