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Not noticing any issues with lean or rich when I step on the throttle. Wait I got to uncross my eyes. Got to get me a laptop:aigo: Keep us posted and thanks again for all your hard work.

Glad to be of some help to somebody, these guys have helped me out. Have fun!!!

Are you getting any codes? Can you really hear a knocking sound?

I'd would just act like I'm fixing the tank so I could stay in it. Welcome and Gods Speed in a safe return.

Did you use a laptop to get the tuning done? If so any tips you can pass on CRE? I've been trying to do mine still by myself and I'm starting to look like Marty Feldman:biglaugh: Remember him, one eye looked one way and one the other way. I don't recomend this:3d_frown: When you say "tip in"...

Welcome. I used to live in Akron, Condom Capital of the world.

Did you clean out the spark plug holes under the middle cover? That's were I was getting a burning oil smell from the plugs getting hot and cooking the oil residue. If you had that much residue on the top it's got to be realy gunked up in the holes. You don't really want to use a power washer...

I think you said you had like 155lbs on the compression test? Should be OK. Did you notice anything in the oil? If not the HG is probablly OK. Have you been able to see were the coolant was comming from?

I'd do the TPS check to see if it just needs adjusted. The O2 has a resistance check also. They are fairly cheep if you just get a generic at AZ or someplace like that I think 35.00-40.00 about a year ago I got one. And like Black Dyno says the AC don't worry about until next summer. You...

4 plus. What about the filter? Read the Stickie about oil and filters. Alot of good info there. Lot of guys run an extra quart.

Try Toyota of Dallas on line. I use them for factory parts, they seem to have good prices and they ship pretty quick. Or O'riellys or AZ they usally take a couple of trys to get the right part.

Have you cranked the motor any, by hand or starter? If you have you'll have to make sure you are at top dead center on #1 and the rotor is pointing at the #1 wire when you drop in the distributor. Check around the gasket that goes between the head and manifold. On that section of the manifold...

If you could find a scrap head with the shims and buckets intact, you could have a starting point. Short of just buying some in different sizes from Toyota to see what you might need to clearance them. Your machinest should be able to check how much gap you have now without the shims, then check...

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- IIRC the blocks changed around either in mid '89 or mid '90... __________________ I was told the NA blocks changed before that, like 88. Don't know how much thicker the walls are though. Can't find those pics...

Mines bypassed, helps keep the TB a little cooler in the summer. I don't drive a lot in the winter, your buddy is bascially right, I think is suppose to help with cold weather driveabilty. In your climate might not be a bad idea.

Thats a lot of miles you should be able to go 50 weight easy and it will probably help your pressure:icon_bigg

After she's warmed up? Pretty good pressure. You must have tighter clearences that I do. My rods and mains are at .019-.020. I also have a Toga HV pump shimed 5mm, with 2" added to pan and baffels. I'm right now running 10w40 oil. Next time I'm going to 5 or 10w50. Never heard of the valve...

OK. you going to keep the upgrade on the master a secret?:naughty: By the way I keep a pic of your motor under my pillow at night zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.

I tried the extra quart of oil and no change in my oil pressure. Try either 5w50 or 10w50. That should bring it up a notch or two. I don't think you mentioned how many miles on the motor?

From the TB to the ISC to the head http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=CO&P=2