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I would set the TPS after you have cleaned the TB( easier to set it off the car). then you can put the new Maf on and set the timing. Should be good to go.

Have you checked your tranny bolts? Stupid question, fluid in the tranny? It seems to me if you have checked the uni's, the drive shaft, the center bearing, and the yoke at the rearend for play, it's pointing back to the clutch. If you get chatter when you take off, most times is contamination...

It cost my son $500 to ship his Caddy from Fl. to Tenn. 700 miles. BHG. 7M's aren't the only BHG cars out there.

That's a pretty good claim. and if it works could be more accurate than most dyno's. I don't worry about gas mileage too much...

I have a leak somewere around the rear hatch, it was somehow getting into the rear tail lights and the lens would fill up with water, short out the bulbs, and actually run into the spare tire well. I fixed it, drilled a couple of small holes 3/32", in to the bottom of the lens.

I agree with you on the calibrated dyno. It would elimate a lot of variables in my opinion. I was also curious as to the accuracy of the G-tech meters. I wonder if anybody has compared with a dyno to see how accurate they might be?

Thanks. Yes that helps. I believe not as accurate as a dyno due to the variables involved as I mentioned. I guess if you had multi runs to get an average, it could be a little more accurate don't you think? Or at least an average.

Not too bad. Like I said I don't do 1/4 mile, used to years ago with different cars, too hard on the car, and too expensive to fix. But I'd be interested to see somebody elses slip. Still don't know how you can figure HP by a 1/4 mile slip? I would think there would be even more variables then...

Do you have the lumbar support, AKA knee in the back. I have the leather w/lumbar and back problems, they are, to me better than my son's caddy leathers. I use to make long trips 18-20hrs and no complaints.

Did you notice any oil from the top of the motor when you pulled the tranny? I caught my VC's leaking down into the bellhousing one time(dirty little oil leaking buggers) and it might be contamation on your clutch disk, flywheel, pressure plate, causing the chatter. Was the clutch a new one? Did...

Use the search button for leaking valve covers, not to long ago there was a post about that and the bolts they used. New VSV, EGR's etc are dealer items, along with the ISC and TPS. All of these will give you sticker shock direct from a dealer. Some guys have mentioned Champion Toyota, in cali...

Yeah the numbers are ok. The higher compression could be carbon build up for some reason in that cylinder. But over all not bad. Was the motor warm or cold for the test? Yeah you answered your own question about the waterfall. I'd keep an eye on your coolant level to see if that was the...

Thanks IJ. I don't have the problem, I just wanted to know so I can make sure mine are right after my last rebuild. I installed a new center bearing then and I don't think I even paid any attention if the uni's were in sync. If the drive shaft is cocked a little, What's the best way to get 'er...

No problem although I have to give credit to CRE for helping me do the mod. I'm a little electricly challanged myself.

Yep, with a jumper wire the same gauge as the wire you see there is the easiest way. Just plug it into the female end.

I've seen you mention this before IJ, are you talking about the u-joints situated all in the same line? In other words turned the same way, and the shaft sighted along a straight line from diff. to trans tail?

Yes it gives you 12v all the time instead of the two step 9v then 12v. Simplest mod I ever did.:icon_bigg

Are you talking about the FP resistor mod? If so you can take a insulated jumper wire the same gauge and just stick it in the female ends of the connector.

How humid has it been there? Could just be condensation in the exhaust.