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The TB has an orifice built in the PCV fitting: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EC&P=5 It needs to be clear for the PCV system to work properly.

Interesting...I guess this thread is done then.

The only person that's been to the beach is you sport...probably Ft De Soto with lots of sea shell fragments in the sand ;) You're right, you didn't back down...that is obvious (even when confronted with good info). What you did do is attempt to justify your position when confronted...not...

I'm going to throw my 2 cents in. You went from a very general statement to a "do it if you know what you are doing". With various other info that was both good and bad. The bad started when you said you do it during auto-X and it was fine to do in general. SupraCentral was trying to keep...

As long as you understand poly bushings will produce a stiffer/rougher ride. Make sure you lube with some good moly grease.

Of course it will work. You could replace the stock AC fan switch in the thermo housing with a 170-180 deg one and wire it to the fan ground. Supply fused, positive power with an ignition activated relay and you will be good to go. BTW - 175-180 deg F is a perfect ops temp. The 200 deg...

That's a rather confusing/non-commital answer. Hope you don't expect much real help (besides guessing) for a cause with answers like that. :nono:

The wire spring clamps will work too. Correct line/clamp sizing is the key.

Those vac lines under the manifold control the hot start fuel pressure up VSV, EGR VSV, power steering idle up, and the BOV. You need all of them. The constant force clamps shown in the above diagram should solve the pop-off problem. If you are using cheap silicone hose, replace it with...

Do the lines have the stock clamps on them?

Is the EGR installed on the engine?

Make sure the check valve under the ISCV is clear. Will it crank faster with the gas pedal slightly depressed?

Did you check the oil cap like I suggested? To confirm exhaust gas in the cooling system you will need a NAPA block tester. (like I already said)

Have you had the battery tested?

Off the present too-long arms, the math adds up ;)

I would get a piece of plastic split loom to cover those wires...a lot of heat in that area. You will need to get the code 52 fixed (as you know). A difficult to start could be several issues...I would start by removing the ISCV and cleaning it (requires disassembly).

That's not your problem. That wrap is there to protect the wires. Pull ECU codes.

The one on the right...under the driver's side, forward fender, aft of the fog light. It's a TruCool w/ a Spal Fan: This is a better option IMO: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=BMM%2D70298&N=700+115&autoview=sku The B&M with a fan is the same...

A cap tester is the best way. You could just buy a new cap as well. I would still have the system pressure tested...pretty sure you can get a loaner at AutoZone or take it to a radiator shop.

Check for the presence of coolant in the oil...a lot of times you will see a brown emulisification in the oil cap with a BHG. In any case, stop driving the car...any coolant in the oil will trash the bearings in short order.