You bumped a 3 1/2 year old thread to ask something that is not even related? That is a repeat of a thread you just created?
That is BS...do not do this again. Thread closed.
If the HG has not been run, you can use it. The HG will not seal for oil in those areas...you will have an oil leak unless you are very, very lucky. Pulling the head is just as easy (all you have to do is lift it) as removing the rear timing cover. Removing the rear cover will require new...
You can use thread sealer on the stud threads that go into the block...I would use ARP moly lube on the nut side. You will need to chase the block holes to accommodate the extra length of the studs. Studs screw into the block finger tight. Use the ARP torque spec following the TSRM pattern...
I always use Toyota seals.
MT-90 is good for the tranny...you were smart to wait vs leaking it on the ground. get the seal fixed and get the MT-90 in there.
Yep...idle up for powersteering at low speed.
Actually, you are correct...technically, it needs to be capped off on both sides. Not capping it off on the accordion hose side will allow unmetered air into the intake.
Nick - He just replace his auto tranny with another, but does not have the neutral start switch installed.
Stretch - What happened to the neutral start switch on the old tranny? You really do not want to bypass it...it's a safety feature.
It's shown in the pic:
That valve (#17630) is used to increase idle when turning the car at low speed. It does need to be capped off on the hard line side until you get a chance to replace it.
Take a look at this diagram:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=2211&P=2
The vac line attaches at the end where it shows 22230X to a small vertical hard pipe (22205)...another vac line goes from the other end of that hard pipe to the vac hard pipe in front of the...
Run a spell checker sport and use decent sentences...your posts are pretty hard to read.
On that side of the motor, I would take a look at the cam cover gaskets. There are two locations on the front arc that specs RTV sealant in the TRSM.
The valves are a bit noisy on the 7M, but not excessively so. If you got 500 miles or so on the engine, I would check valve lash and timing belt tension as part of a normal maintenance.
A head bolt re-torque is also in order...especially if a stock type composite HG was used with stock head...
Code 34 is generated when the ECU senses above normal air flow volume across the AFM. If everything checks ok (IC, IC piping, clamps, connectors, etc) and you are using the stock AFM, then you will generally hit FC in the 12-14 psi range. This does depend on OAT and the altitude density for...
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