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Actually anywhere temps are in the -10 to +10 deg C range with high humidity.

If the TB is fully closed at that position, it's fine. If you tightened the cable enough to open the TB plate a tiny bit, all you are doing is masking the real problem. He has already verified the ISCV air path is clear...this is really not applicable at this point.

The only thing I can think of for the ISCV is if it's closing down on a thick layer of carbon inside the housing when it steps down after warm-up. Like JJ said, that seems to be less of a possibility.

That's a fair amount of material. Did you get the cam saddles checked to make sure you don't have the banana going on with your cams? If you want to retain stock CR, you will need to use a thicker MHG...hopefully you got the block decked to the RA spec for one ;)

Get the block magnafluxed for cracks before you spend another penny on it. If you replace the freeze plugs, use Toyota OEM steel plugs. Pay attention to the piston-to-wall clearance...JE's spec a 6 thou clearance iirc...that is too much and you will get slap. You will need new rings (of...

The block cylinder will need to be checked for roundness and piston-to-wall clearance. If they are round and the wear lip at the top can be removed, you can get away with a cylinder hone...over 4 thou clearance, you will get piston slap with the JE's. Might as well have the block decked for a...

Think about this Kenny...the problem is a current path between the thin aluminum of the radiator and the coolant (yes it's conductive). Any other measurements does not tell you squat. With a current path through the radiator, the coolant acts as an electrolyte removing metal from the anode...

Any amount of current will turn an aluminum radiator into a sacrificial anode...that means you will corrode a hole in it in short order. Suggest you isolate the radiator ASAP.

Here's a couple pics of German Castrol...on the left is the current version...on the right is the earlier production "GC Green" They were taken in different lighting conditions. The 2nd pic shows a green tinge to the current production oil, but not nearly the color of the "green"...

For the Supra rear, you can also add a toe bar, camber bar, and traction arm too ;) (I bet they are bent along with the bolts) Hitting a curb at speed is bad...it gets very expensive, very fast.

I had to get a subframe for the Cressida from a junkyard dealer here: http://www.everdrive.com/Default.aspx No longer available at the dealer...if it was, it cost $650 just for the subframe. EverDrive sent me a subframe, both lower control arms, both thrust arms, sway bar with both support...

Upper/lower control arms - done Strut - done Subframe - likely done Axial - done Wheel - done Rotor - done Wheel hub - likely done Just an FYI - my daughter had a similar run in with a curb in my Cressida. I had to replace the entire front suspension, including the subframe that holds...

I donno, maybe it's just me, but it's sad to just buy a supra to part out...especially a '92 Teal in good shape. It's a real shame, for profit or not.

Idle is controlled by the ISVC....you do not want to adjust any "idle" screw on the TB. Your friend doesn't know how the idle system on the 7M works. The TB bypass screw found on the top of the early TB's is set full closed from the factory and should not be moved. The throttle stop screw on...

If the pump is in spec, use it.

I'll tell you sport...it's not that simple and your question was not clear (except maybe to you). You posted in the wrong section to boot...next time I give you an infraction instead of just telling you. I was trying to get you to read the swap FAQ to see what's involved and perhaps save you...

Me either...definately not the no-idle problem! LOL!

I guess a clogged check valve is not the issue ;)

How many Supra's have you parted out so far?