Search results

Pretty sure you're going to need that sensor if you keep AC in the car.

Sounds like the AC solar sensor: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=AC&P=8

Was this a new or used fan clutch? Are you sure it's a GTE clutch with a 10 blade fan? Is the fan shroud in place and in good condition? Does the fan make a howling noise for 30-45 sec after the car is started, then quiet down? Unfortunately, I'm starting to think the same as...

You need to read the sticky. The GE and GTE intake manifolds are different. We have no idea what your plans are until you tell us...there are several ways to crack this nut. That is why the sticky is there. Instead of asking random questions, it would be a lot more effective to ask after...

The stock block threads is 1/8" BPT...there are adapters available.

Check the ISCV for proper operation...you should hear/feel it step full open when the motor is shut down. I suspect the ISCV air path is blocked. The valve itself need to be cleaned (requires disassembly) or the check valve under it is clogged (requires replacement).

I highly suggest you remove the jiggle valve ;)

Did you cut the jiggle valve off? I've had a new T-stat held closed by the pressure behind it. Removing the juggle valve fixed it.

^^^ Didn't stick it, but did move to the oil section so it will be easier to find.

Looks like he already has ;)

Swap questions belong in this section as well. Read the sticky.

You're going to stay NA? If so, the pistons in the GTE short block are a lower CR...it will suffer a fairly substantial power loss. The GTE also has oil squirters, not a big deal in this case. Since this is a NA question, thread moved to the 7M-GE Tech section.

That is basically correct, you can use a bottom tap to straighten/clean the threads. In the case of studs, it reconditions the threads at the bottom where the stock head bolts never reached, but the studs will. Be careful and use a good tap.

Time to check the valve clearances. I would never trust pre-gapped plugs...I always find one or two that the gaps are off. What kind of head bolt hardware and what did you torque to? Is the EGR leaking? The gaskets should have been replaced...that broken bolt, was it replaced? I...

^^^ That's what I had mine painted.

I tried to warn you ;)

The center is the same and the housing has to be modified to accept the bigger wheel. Ft413 is correct, you need to send it to someone that knows what they are doing. The wheels/shaft will have to be re-balanced or the turbo will have a very short life...this is not something your average Joe...

That's interesting 3P...so, the resistor prevents the USDM TCCS from referencing the EGR fuel/timing tables? The tables it uses to substitute with the resistor in place are the same as the JDM TCCS? (I didn't realize both the USDM and JDM tables were loaded in every ECU)

That or motor oil on the block side to make screwing them in easier. Like I said, the block threads need to be chased and all debris removed from the hole...the threads need to be very clean.

^^^ I'm with you, but is is allowed. The only good reason to do so is a hairline crack that may penetrate the water jacket.