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Seals do get old and hard, when they do they leak. Often times an old seal will not leak due to deposits built up in that area, switching to a synthetic oil does a very good job of cleaning out engine deposits. The result is you will get a leak. Cam, main, and oil pump shaft seals usually...

Before you do all that, why don't you check codes and make sure the AC button is not depressed...if it's an auto tranny, it needs to be in park or neutral too. ;)

What was wrong with timing? (it would help the next guy that has the same problem) What makes you think you have rod knock?

It also will if the EGR valve is stuck open (carbon) or if the EGR valve is getting vacuum at idle due to a mis-routing of the lines. The car will idle very rough. I know that's not the case with an EGR not installed, but the above statement is not completely correct.

If it's holding the TB plate open, yes. At idle the TB plate should be completely closed...the ISVC path provides the air the engine needs to run at idle.

Code 51 is a real time code, the only real time code the TCCS displays...it is not retained in memory. It indicates: - IDL contacts off...i.e. the TPS is not adjusted correctly or the TB plate is open (accelerator pedal depressed) - The neutral start switch is off - The ECU is receiving a...

Paging Jeff Lange?

Just so you guys know, that's 7M-Fanatic. Gordon is, lets say, a bit "volatile". He gets rare parts, but you don't want to have a run in with him. Keep in mind, a lot of these parts require modification to work. In the case of this torson, you have to have the correct output shafts or it will...

Why is it rusty? Are you running pure water? (this really needs to be fixed) Have you done any PCV mods? A blown turbo seal is a lot more likely than a cracked center housing.

Nash - the problem is what you post is very difficult to decipher...even more so when you are not being specific. It might be best at times just to STFU. This is one of those times...time for you to exit this thread. Suggest you take my advice.

If the AC button is on, you will always get a code 52...it's exactly how it's suppose to work. Check codes without the AC on. Code 34 is over boost (fuel cut). Clear ECU codes by pulling the EFI fuse in the engine bay for at least 30 sec.

And, did you check codes with the AC button on (pressed in)? The carb cleaner probably didn't hurt the connector, but I don't recommend it. They make electrical cleaners...next time go get some vs being impatient.

Nash - you're wrong. The knock sensor is a piezoelectric element that produces a voltage to the ECU when deformed. It's essentially a type of microphone and as such needs specialized wiring. Voltage ranges from low-high depending on the frequency. Engine knock takes place at 7 kHz, this...

No...that will not be a problem. What you don't want to do is overheat the fluid multiple cycles.

New engine - you want to check valve lash and timing belt tension at the 500 mile point. Things do "settle in". ;)

It doesn't take long, especially under agressive driving. I would check the AFT (burned smell) on a very regular basis.

Check timing.

An orifice is just a pin hole...under boost it creates a venturi effect across the top of the valve cover ports and assists moving crankcase vapor to the accordion hose. It's not very efficient, but it's also a small percentage of time the motor is in boost. Most of the time crankcase vapor is...

It's better than nothing, but I'll warn you...excessive ATF temps will kill an auto tranny. #2 on that list is debris (crap in the fluid). That is why I suggested a real filter earlier.

The stock oil cooler is a bit small for the tranny...it is good for a powersteering cooler though.