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Doesn't look like it has the extra reinforcing ribs you see on the later blocks.

Unfortunately, you will have to send it out or go local for a turbo rebuild. It will have to be rebalanced...not something you can do at home. At least, if you want it to last any length of time.

Sounds like you've got a good plan to me ;) Nice looking track car...I like it!

Excellent question...thread is closed. Poodles - Next time you see something like this, you can help us out by using the "report post" feature icon (red outlined triangle) in the user box on the left. It gets sent to the Mod forum immediately ;)

1) - Timing can cause higher than normal engine temps. There has been no mention of any timing check with the diagnostic block jumped. 2) - A NAPA block tester will check for exhaust gas in the coolant system, but there has been no mention of coolant coming out of the overflow bottle. A...

You are badly confused. Red Line 75W-90 already has the friction modifier in it's formulation and is intended to be used for an LSD. If you use Ford 75W-90 differential oil, it will need the addition of a modifier...I usually start with 1 oz and go from there. Red Line 75W-90 should never...

Take a look at this thread ;) http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1267148#post1267148

How is the catch can routed? Hows your compression?

Got one on the Cressida's 5M and my truck R22 TB's as well...the TB screw is for idle speed. The one under the round aluminum cap on this type AFM is for idle mixture. Turn it counterclockwise, it allows more air to bypass the vane and leans idle mixture. Like I said, it's not the one you...

There is another screw beneath an aluminum cap that can be used to adjust the air bypass on the vane type AFM. It is really only useful at idle. I thought you may have meant this screw...from your pic, that is not the case.

Tanya - You're referring to the idle mixture adjusting screw on the vane type AFM, is that correct? Which way did you turn it for "lean"?

Only 100 deg F higher than the 1200 deg rating ;)

Those headlights on a Supra = :puke:

You could always look in the TRSM: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EM&P=20 (What a novel idea)

The TSRM spec's 156 psi or higher for the 7M-GE, with no more than a 14 psi defference between cylinders. That said, this is the wrong section for this post. Moved to 7M-GE Tech section. Please pay attention where you post.

Owwww...that makes my eyes hurt! ;)

First thing I would do is pull the tranny codes per that section of the TSRM. Shift lever adjustment would be next ;) BTW - this is the correct way to do a complete fluid change...the filter is actually a screen. You have to remove the pan to change it...

Might want to take a look at this forum post at the site you pointed me to: http://www.powderbuythepound.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=3477 Doesn't look like the high temp powder will hold up on exhaust parts...to me that includes heat shields. In any case, powder coat does nothing for...

The most, 15 thou...the motor didn't seem to have any issues. The MHG that was installed did make up the difference....a custom Cometic slightly larger than the cylinder bore and at the thickness 1.37mm stock thickness + head material removed + block material removed (0.38mm).

The TSRM says max warpage is 0.0020"...that implies the max that can be removed. However, I have seen more, it's up to you and your comfort level. In any case, the MHG thickness needs to be enough to make up for the material removed from both the head and block. That will keep your CR...