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Al - He tried that ;)

With a higher pressure pump, you want to drill the J-tube and you will need an AFPR. The stock restriction is there to serve as a back-up to a failed FPR. With a higher pressure pump, the restriction will limit the flow return to the tank and make adjustments to FP on the low side difficult if...

This looks like the AC compressor needs to be removed...correct?

Ghost - Never seen a powder coat that can handle those temps. Do you know what's in it that enables that kind of thermal resistance?

To add, if you tighten all the way down, you might as well remove it IMO. It's not doing a whole lot of good at that position.

If you do that, make damn sure the rear end is up on a set of good stands. Don't want to be reading that the car fell on you. It may or may not work...going to depend on the length of the dust shield (attached to the tranny) for the front U-joints. Seems like a lot of effort to me when 4...

It's "dye" ;) He's referring to UV dye you can get at the parts store specifically for oil. You will need a black light or UV flashlight to see the leak.

The ones I've done had to be unbolted from the differential...same experience the OP has. I guess it can be done, but taking out 4 bolts is not exactly difficult. You do need to marks the position of the DS on the differential flange and re-install at the same location.

^^^ Doesn't answer the question. Ark - You are going to need to unbolt the DS from the differential.

Is there an echo in this thread or are we in the "Office of Redundancy"? ;) I have 5 of the fuel pulsation dampers laying around and checked all of them. The screws were 1-2 turns from fully tightened down on every one, but this is relative. Think of the pulsation damper as a pressure...

From what info I can gather, Castrol Edge USA and Castrol Edge UK (the link the OP provided) are different base stocks: Edge USA MSD: Castrol Edge 5W-30 - US Edge UK SDS: Castrol Edge 5W-30 - UK For a straight comparison, both safety sheets are for the 5W-30 version. Note that US...

Ummmm....why don't you answer the question and/or provide additional input/comments vs just bumping the thread. The "I got a secret so everybody guess my problem" will make it 100% probable that your question will never get answered. :3d_frown: Why don't you start here...

LOL...Might have had a bit of a restriction there huh? :D Trust me...done more stupid tricks than that. ;)

Powder coat will cook in short order on a heat shield...I've seen it 1st hand. It will look good when you install it, but that will change dramatically after a few hours run time. BTW - I have done many parts with ceramic coat, it is the only way to go on exhaust parts and heat shields. Not...

Go ahead then...you'll see for yourself why you don't want to powder coat a heat shield.

Yep! Ceramic is the way to go. No way I would use powder coat on a heat shield.

Both top vac ports you circled are forward of the TB plate when it's closed at idle. There is no vac at those ports at idle as a result.

JJ - LMAO! It is indeed a rare specimen ;) Yep...UV dye will do it alright. Glad you figured it out.

Your choice is to remove all the shims from the buckets or to measure best you can with them in the bucket and place on the correct side of the head. In either case you will have to have a shim installed to measure lash (cams installed & torqued correctly) with a feeler gauge. This might...

The buckets are the same...the shims determine the valve lash. The buckets "should" go back in the same place on the head....I would get an appropriate size ball hone and hit each hole in the head before I dropped the buckets in without knowing the order. For the shims, you are going to...