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That "sensor" is a temp actuated switch...the CSI is only active when the starter is engaged. It shuts down as soon as the car is actually started or after a set time has expired. A manual switch will not do you any good. I suspect your problem lies elsewhere.

There is an index mark on each cam gear...there is a corresponding "V" shaped mark on the metal plate behind the cam gears. The mark on both cam gears should line up with the "V" when the crank is turned to put the timing mark on the zero index. With everything lined up, the CPS should look...

Things that would make pulling the lower cover useful: - The crank timing gear has belt guides straked to it...these can come loose allowing the belt to move on the gear. - The oil pump shaft has a collar securing it behind behind the drive gear. If the collar is loose or broken, it allows...

You should be able to just plug in at the tranny vs running additional wires. Both the auto and manual have the same type reverse switch. Might have to change the connector though.

FYI - disconnecting the battery will have the same effect as pulling the EFI fuse (clears ECU codes). And, the car does not need to be running to check codes...all you need to do is jump the diagnostic terminals and turn the key to "on". Code 52 is generated for a bad knock sensor or the...

Really? That's not what you said and now you're whining about it being moved?

The point is the solution to a code 52 has been covered extensively. What do you expect someone to think reading this? Some sort of magic solution to a problem (your "exact situation") that involves two possible issues: The knock sensor(s) or the wiring to the ECU. Then you post something...

Adam - the stock lines are 5/8" ID...that is good on a stock motor. IJ runs -10 lines iirc.

Belongs in the regional forum...you'll get a better answer. Pay attention to where you post.

There are many threads concerning the knock sensor (code 52)...the way to fix it does cover your "exact situation". These threads also say a code 52 will retard timing. Quit being lazy and fix it instead of looking for a easy solution. I can't possibly see how you could think a tranny swap...

Reason I asked about the cam gears is that on some the adjustment screws will brush against the rear cover making a ticking sound. Have you checked your timing lately? The loss of power in making is me think you jumped a tooth on your timing belt. If so, what I said earlier is a good...

Think about it next time ;) Moved.

Check the timing belt, tensioner, crank gear, oil pump shaft gear and cam gears. Do you have after market cam gears?

Check your crank damper bolt and make sure it's tight...it's torque spec is 190 ft/lbs iirc.

I didn't say it wasn't required, I said it is not necessary for the coil packs to operate (fire). A field ground takes care of stray voltage...think of it as a drain in a plumbing system that gets rid of excess water.

Got firewood? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YeanPDO-D6M

Yep - that's it. The coil packs do have a field ground to the plate...a wire is attached on the stock set-up on the drivers side to the block. It is not required for the packs to operate, but you do want the ground wire.

My bet is on a vac leak or the ISCV/it's air path. BTW - your plug wires should be good.

Take a look at this troubleshoot chart and use it as a guide: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=14 Popping in the exhaust is more often a rich after-fire.

A 10 psi FP rise is a lot for fast idle, what is the rpm at fast idle? What kind of plugs are you using? Have you checked plug wire resistance per the TSRM?