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Check the 7.5A gauge fuse in Junction Box 1...top pic here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=16

Do you have a BOV vented to the atmosphere? Are there any ECU codes? You need to drop your FP to ~30 psi vac on.

- Studs provide a more consistent clamping force vs bolts - If studs are used, the block holes will need to be chased and threads cleaned 1st. - You can install studs with the engine in the car - the easiest way is to place the head on the block (the index pins will align) with the stud...

Looks like high pressure teflon line hose to me ;)

Some small differences, but the pin-out to harness is the same. There are differences in the harness to other connectors.

Have you pulled ECU codes? http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx

I use a Magnefine on the return hose: http://www.emergingent.com/magnefine/order_page.htm Excellent filter. Vork - HP hose from the pump to the rack...not required on the return. Be very careful using stainless hose...it is abrasive. When it rubs against anything, it will literally...

+1 on turning it over with no plugs and the EFI fuse pulled. No plugs = no compression = no load on the bearings. Makes it easier on the starter to turn the motor over and get the oil flowing too. Make sure the battery is fully charged. Make sure you check your oil again afterward like...

The hole that is left will allow a small amount of flow at all times through the radiator. Prevents back pressure that can hold a T-stat closed and helps rid the system of air quickly. The T-stat should be the stock 190 deg F temp rating...the cap should be the stock pressure rating. If...

Be care with a shop that says they are "7M Experts"...I've seen a lot of shops make that statement and royally FUBAR a motor. The statements: "they said the standard head gasket replacement will be fine" and "the mechanist will supply the correct head gasket thickness for what they took off the...

If it is moly lube yes...if not, no. The color has nothing to do with what's in it.

Any good moly assembly lube will work. If you use motor oil, the ARP spec goes to 120 ft/lbs for studs...not the best option IMO. Take a look at this: http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechInstall.html Click on "Using a Torque Wrench" on the left. Setting proper preload is step #1

You still need to have the crank checked by a machinist for straightness/balance and have the journals micro polished. Unless you are willing to risk spinning another bearing.

Close - 58 ft/lbs is the TSRM spec...that is too low to prevent the bolts from loosening over time. Reg Riemer had the stock bolts tested for yield...they can go to 70-75 ft/lbs with no problem.

A couple clarifications: - Don't put any sealant (copper spray) on a new MHG with the factory Viton coating intact...it's perfectly fine to use on a OEM HG or a new/used MHG that has the Viton stripped off. - ARP spec for studs are 80 ft/lbs using moly for lube. The lube used has a huge...

Swap question belong in the 7M-GE Tech section...suggest you read the stickies there. Thread moved.

You can use Red Line 75W-90, but I'll warn you, Red Line can make some high mileage LSDs chatter. It's going to depend on how worn the clutch plates are. Ford 75W-90 Gear oil and LSD additive usually works better on a LSD with a lot of miles on it...start with about 1 oz of the additive to a...

^^^ Most of the details on this system is classified ;) I can tell you this: It's an all weather, all aspect, passive IR detection/targeting system...no active RF emissions (radar) is required for it to be fully functional. It works on other aircraft, ground vehicles/buildings, missiles...

IJ is using socketless hose (shown in the pic)...no clamp is necessary.

Close...the ECU looks for 176 to 212 deg F for normal injector ops and timing. Phoenix in the summer is one of the few times I would use a 180 deg F T-stat...helps the coolant system get ahead of the high OAT. Make sure the aux and condensor fans are operating properly.