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Very important ;) BTW - last I knew, grounds are never "hot".

Not my spec...it's Toyota's and I provided the link to it. "Ballpark" does not cut it in the Tech section. And, you failed to mention that the one you pulled out of your ass ignored a much lower limit in the range...even mentioned "maybe 17 psi". Go ahead and run your useless...

Wrong place to post this...moved to the Other Engine Tech section. Please pay attention as to where you post.

Not true. A 50/50 mix ethylene glycol to water coolant will boil at 223 deg F...a 70/30 mix will boil at 235 deg F. Both temps assume sea level pressure and exceed the temp (212 deg F) where the stock ECU pulls timing. Under higher pressure coolant boiling temps go higher as well. There is...

Spec for the rad cap is 10.7 - 14.9 psi: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=CO&P=9 Please don't "guess" in the Tech Section ;)

35-45 psi is what I would run in those tires...depends on what kind of ride you can tolerate.

Did you even look at the link I posted? If you can't do something as simple as pulling ECU codes, you really need to take the car to someone that knows what they are doing. I'll tell you this, it is probably not the O2 sensor...guessing will get you nowhere fast on this motor.

The problem with places like AutoZone is you might have got a GE vs a GTE fan clutch...there is a difference. The GTE clutch is much more beefy to drive the 10 bladed fan on the turbo cars. On a cold start, you should here the clutch howl for 45-60 sec until it gets to the correct temp...

What didn't help...me posting how to pull engine ECU codes? How can you possibly expect help if you do not post the specific code? Dude - get a grip. Playing guessing games is not going to help anyone, mostly you.

Duplicate thread deleted...this thread moved to the correct section. Maniac - Please pay attention to where you post and do not post duplicate threads. The 7M-GTE has an AFM, not a MAF ;) Here is how to check engine codes: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx

I'm going to clue you in sport...HP has nothing to do with it. There are many, many more 7M's making well over 400 HP than the 1JZ. This question has to do with a clutch that is attached to a 1JZ engine...that is why it belongs here. tcbmorris is correct, guys with this motor will best be...

LOL...that's kinda funny since reality is exactly the opposite. A 0W-30 flows much better cold than a 10W-40 or 15W-50...just stick a bottle of 15W-50 and a bottle of 0W-30 in the freezer for an hour. Pour on a inclined cookie sheet and watch...care to guess which will reach the bottom 1st...

Most of the problems I've seen with a T-stat is with the guy that owns the car ;) BTW - cutting the jiggle valve off the T-stat (leaving a small hole at the 12 o'clock position) is a very good thing to do.

I really don't care what your personal reasoning is...it's a 1JZ in a 240sx. Absolutely nothing to do with a Supra. I was cutting you slack by just moving it...that slack just evaporated.

A 240sx with a 1JZ...and, how does this question relate to a general Mk III discussion? This really belongs in the Other Engine Tech section. Thread moved...please pay attention to where you post.

;)

No shroud and a bad fan clutch will do it ;) A sticking T-stat will cause a pretty rapid spike in the 1st 5 min of driving. It could be sticking partially open, but not likely.

I would run WalMart SuperTech 5W-30 with a SuperTech filter...it's a good idea to use it to flush any crap out of the engine. When you switch to GC, use a Wix or NAPA Gold filter. So your friends think a thick oil is required for the rings to seal. Think about that ;) What exactly are...

Unless there is pressure in the crankcase, which there always is some....the vac will pull it in the proper direction. The idea is to get crankcase vapor to either the manifold (which is 90% of the time) or to the turbo intake. Having said that, a check valve on the intake side that only...