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One thing I have seen using Red Line water wetter...it can cause a kind of slime to form. Depends on the coolant, but it happened with Toyota Red to me. Had to do a very thorough flush with oxalic acid to get it all out.

It does take a tad longer to reach ops temp, but that is fine. Your car should run close to the T-stat rated temp, assuming the rest of the cooling system is in good shape.

Why would you need to change manifold gaskets? ATF would be a waste of time...a PAO or ester based oil will do the same thing over time. Be careful what you do though, if the seals are old & hard, those deposits may be all that is keeping them from leaking. Remove the deposits and you might...

The thing is, ATF is not going to do what you want...back in the day when this was 1st done, maybe. Now with modern oils, not so much. The reason you want to pull the plugs is to prevent the rods from being under load and exerting any real force to the crank. To do what you want, kerosene...

So now you're being attacked...again typical. Where's the proof of your previous statements about me? Lets see you back it up. Abuse of power? Give me examples. Again typical, because there are none. So you resort to the same tactics. It is obvious to anyone that reads this who...

To be honest, Seafoam is basically snake oil...it is solvent. Kerosene will work better per above to flush the oil system. Pure water metered through a vac port will work better to clean the intake and valves. Both at far less cost. There are far better fuel additives containing Polyether...

Kerosene is more effective...do this: - Make sure your battery is fully charged - Remove the spark plugs - Drain the oil and replace the filter with a Walmart SuperTech - Replace drain plug and fill with kerosene - Crank the engine (EFI fuse pulled) for about 5 min - Let it sit for 10-15...

:runaway: LMAO!

It's funny you would focus on the only statement in your original post that was truth. What about the rest of the post? Care to enlighten this old man with an ego about what you really meant about: (it's 10-15 degs F) And: (so, you telling me race teams don't run water?)...

It's actually called an air control valve. It's purpose is to idle up the engine under low speed turning conditions. I would start here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=SR&P=2

Matt - That temp range is perfect. Keep in mind a stat will start to open at a temp less than it's rating. I've tested numerous 190 stats and have had them start to open anywhere between 175-180 deg F....full open occurred between 190-200 degrees. These were all new stats, OEM and Stant...

No pun, there's an underlying reason a coolant thermostat is a very important part of the overall engine system. The wink was a clue...I guess you need it spelled out. Since I'm in a relatively good mood, I'll repeat myself from numerous posts over the years, but it also forces me to point out...

Did you see this thread? http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62838 There's a diagram in post #4. In your diagram, the T-stat should be between both lines leading to the cooler. The above thread also has a narrative on routing the lines. The T-stat your proposing to use is...

I guess I have to be less absolute in my statements...to get any boost in neutral, a little background is required: Turbos start producing boost only above a certain exhaust mass flow rate (depending on the size of the turbo) which is determined by the engine displacement, rpm, and throttle...

Your car should not build boost in neutral, and neither "should" your friend's car...yours is normal, your friend has some sort of problem if his car does. The engine has to be under load to build boost. Your auto tranny will build boost in gear, holding the brake...up to the stall speed of...

If you want to fry your wiring and maybe start a fire, go ahead and use a higher amp fuse.

Nope - Not going to do that, but you get a week off to think about getting pissed just because you were corrected...it's childish. You're a perfect example of the WRONG way to react. If you're going to make it personal and use insults to make your point, take it to SF. Posting incorrect...

It's a direct fit, no more difficult that installing a Walbro. It does draw more current though, personally I would not use the stock wiring to power that pump.

Not too sure how ARP head studs got into this discussion, but I know for a fact you do not want to over torque them. That is exactly what you did...suggest you either keep it to yourself or post the correct torque. That would be the one on the install sheet that comes with the studs. Like IJ...