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:: tumbleweed ::

Lol....

Zazzn - I do not have to have this kit to understand how ABS works or to know what you are doing. I don't pull numbers out (like 95%) because it would be out of my ass...just like you did. I told you do what you want...I'm done trying to help you or assist this endevor in any way. Have at...

All 7M engines had a 6M crank until the '90 model iirc. The 6M crank is lighter allowing the higher red line on the earlier cars. The 7M crank is fully counter weighted and is a smoother running crank. I'm using the 7M and had about 5 lbs removed during a knife edge job...the best of both...

CPS O-ring ;)

That looks like a 7M crank. If it is, I'd definitely see if it can be fixed before I would throw it away ;)

A re-torque in an attempt to stop the beginning of a BHG or after an excessive amount of time is not going to work. A re-torque after 5 or so complete heat cycles after completing a HG job is a good idea, especially if bolt or stud preload was not set properly during the install torque sequence.

Oh, in that case, please feel free to make yourself look like a complete idiot based on a Honda Boy's statement. (next time RTFM...thread closed)

This actually belongs in off topic ;)

Here's a chart that shows when intake icing is most likely...yes, it's an aircraft engine, carburetor icing chart. Works exactly the same for an earth bound motor with a TB though: If you live in a climate where the humidity/temp conditions are in the orange, green, or blue bands you...

They are there to heat the TB/ISCV to prevent intake icing under certain OAT/humidity conditions. It does not have to be below freezing outside to meet these conditions either ;) In most warm climates you can do away with them without a problem.

A ceramic coat for heat shields is the way to go IMO.

Not unless they started making crankshaft seals out of fiber bonded to metal reinforcement rings ;) (enlarge the pic and take a close look)

Been there, done that :D Used to fly up there for lunch every few weeks when I was stationed in Del Rio back in the mid '80's...the FBO that had the fuel contract handed out an old beater so we could drive over. Almost forgot about that place trucker...good food, good times.

It would be better to take a wire wheel to the rust. Make sure you go over the whole shield to rough it up a bit and wipe down with lacquer thinner.

This is killing me...you're saying that running an engine in the AZ heat for extended periods of overheating is not going to have an effect on the motor? Good luck with that...I see a BHG in your immediate future. Followed by the realization the aluminum head was annealed from the overheat...

A bad knock sensor or it's circuit will have no effect on engine start.

:3d_frown: I have an idea, give the car to me and I promise I'll save it from any further abuse.

You need to keep the manifold gasket in one piece...i.e. do not separate the two halves. Personally, I do not care for that design gasket, but it will work. The 2nd gasket is for the stock turbo elbow to DP connection iirc.

NASCAR teams have not run a 50W (or a 40W for that matter) oil in a long time...think about it: With the way NASCAR rules are concerning every tiny detail of the car, even a few HP advantage is important. Thinner oils mean less fluid friction losses...on the street, we see it as improved gas...