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IJ's diagram is exactly where you want the PCV valve ;) (you will get manifold vac at all times, except under boost)

You realize the springs wil work with both TEMS and non-TEMS, right? It's the Tokico Blues that makes the strut non-TEMS.

i.e. a check valve ;)

I've got Falken 452's...been good to me so far. Front 235/40 on 18"x8" rims Rear 275/35 on 18"x9" rims

That quote was made by IJ, not me. And, I'm pretty sure he was referring to the Ford LSD additive. There is not Ford additive for manual trannys that I am aware of. What you need to do is use the correct gear oil in your tranny. Like I said, Red Line MT-90 is an outstanding choice.

And, I'm telling you there is little to no difference ;)

Nope...Pennzoil Platinum is a Grp III hydrocracked dino oil, same as Mobil 1. It's not a Grp IV (PAO) or Grp V (ester) that are, by definition, a true synthetic. However, Pennzoil has taken the level of their hydrocrack process to the point where there is little difference between it and a...

I never said that sport...at least not that way and with that meaning. And, there's not a post in this section similar that I didn't correct. By all means please provide a link to the post.

A tranny cooler IS an oil cooler ;) This is the best way to set up a cooling circuit: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62838

AutoLite 3923's? Might want to read this: http://www.mkiiitech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=884

I have a great idea...look in the TSRM! http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=BR&P=1 Hint: the ABS system has diagnostic codes ;)

I would test it to make sure the electronics are still good. Epoxy would be the best bet. I really hope you didn't use a spray carb/MAF cleaner on it...the chemicals haze the mirror inside, effectively trashing the AFM.

They are in Houston TX...I bet they will ship to Canada. It doesn't hurt to ask ;)

There are 2 index pins that are placed in the block, front & rear...you line up the holes in the HG with the pins...same for the head ;) This does bring up a good point if the OP decides to use the copper spray on an OEM HG: I use 2 coats and wait till tacky. You very carefully place the...

Replace the timing belt. Replace the HG and seals (get a set of cam seals too) as previously recommended. Taking a look at the bearings is also a good idea. If you use the stock HG bolts, torque to 70-75 ft/lbs. You want to do a re-torque after 5 complete heat/cool down cycles. The motor...

Using spray copper sealer on a OEM composite HG is fine, I do it to help fill in block/head imperfections. On a new MHG with the factory Viton coating you do not want to use the sealer...it damages the Viton. The are 2 places on top of the rear timing cover the TSRM calls for RTV sealant...

You shouldn't use a higher pressure cap on a street car. The higher pressure will push the coolant boiling point higher, useful for a race car that's running water with a wetter additive. On a street car using a 50/50 coolant to water mix, you do not need it.

I'm afraid you are confusing and LSD with a tranny, or you skimmed over the threads you referenced and the correct info didn't sink in. The Ford gear oil (75W-90) can be used in a tranny, but is not the best choice for that application. In any and every case, you do not want to use a friction...

Holding pressure and a pressure test is two different things. A pressure test will tell you if there is a small leak in the system that is allowing air in. Or, is allowing coolant to escape producing the steam you mentioned earlier...it has to be coming from somewhere. Steam just doesn't...

It is a signal to the ECU by the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)...it is either on or off. IDL on = ECU is in idle control mode. Your TPS appears to be working correctly, at least in this respect. Did you clean the inside of the ISCV...the valve stem and housing seat?