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Wix never made Toyota filters...they were a while back Denso Japan. Those were good filters. The ones made in Thailand are a significant drop in quality...I won't use them, except for may be the 1st filter on a engine break-in. The one I throw away after 100 miles ;)

For stock head bolts, the max I would go is 70-75 ft/lbs. For ARP, use the numbers on the spec sheet.

Might want to read this: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42763 Does either/both filters say "Made in Thailand" on the sides? Did the parts guy explain to you the differences in the filters, or did he just bat out BS you would believe? ;) Reason I ask is, I have a very...

Don't focus on pressure, focus on flow...pressure is resistance to flow. The pressure increase at the gauge will be significant...shimmed pump, thick oil, full flow cooler all will contribute. With your set-up and clearances, the thicker oil should be fine to use....you still want to get the...

Depends on what gasket set you're talking about...the complete engine set is pushing $400. The complete head gasket set is around $260 last I checked. The FelPro sets seem to be pretty good, you don't want to use the EGR cooler gasket though...I prefer Toyota cam seals and exhaust manifold...

Ok, let me get this straight...this is the 2nd BHG on this motor, you want to reuse the HKS MHG that blew the 1st time, and you are not going to deck the block (again). You are going to rebuild the turbo yourself with a DM kit. Do I have all this right?

Last I checked, the Mk III has a 7M in it...so, what does any other engine have to do with the time of day in China in this forum? And, owning a bunch of Toyotas automatically makes you an expert? If you plan on keeping the 7M, maybe, just maybe you should learn it before you spout off...

Yep! Another twenty something with an inflated ego and no clue...as we say, "all thrust and no vector" ;) Made me LMAO at the "calling out" comment. He can figure it out for himself...maybe a BHG will convince him the EGR is actually useful. That is all the "splaining" I'm going to do.

Have you even looked at this: - The EGR is inop at idle...the vac port is forward of the TB plate when it is closed. It's impossible for it to be active as a result. - The TCCS controls the EGR VSV...above ~4000 RPM it closes the VSV, cutting off vacuum to the EGR. Therefore it is...

If you didn't fry your gauge that is.

So exactly where did you get this little piece of fiction? Or, did you make it up yourself? JJ is right (as usual), you have NFI what you're talking about. It would be wise for you to refrain from posting this kind of BS in the Tech sections.

What's a bit odd is it only applies to bolts, not studs. Only thing I can come up with for a reason is the bolts are under more twisting force vs studs.

Here it is: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62838 One of the best things you can do to your motor IMO ;)

That spoiler = :gotrice:

Denso makes the stock 440's...they are the pintle type vs disc like the Lucas injectors.

Get your facts straight when you post in the Tech Section Colin. On an aluminum head, ARP limits torque to 75 ft/lbs...per the spec sheet ;)

Yep, and it sure doesn't belong in the Tech section ;)

Moved to the correct section...Please pay attention to where you post. - Check codes as previously mentioned - Check timing...both cam and with the diagnostic block jumped - Check the plug wires for the correct order and for resistance per the TSRM

Yep - a waste of $$$ on a stock oil system.

Coolant shelf life varies, but those that contain silicates are the shortest lived. These are good for 18-24 months. Toyota Red (fortunately) does not contain silicates: HOAT coolants like Toyota Red and Zyrex G-05 have a much longer shelf life...5-8 years if stored properly.