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Valvoline SynPower 75W-90 is a GL-5...it already has the friction modifier necessary for LSDs in it's formulation. If you use the Ford gear oil, start with about 1 oz of the Ford friction modifier. You could flush the differential with kerosene...just fill and turn the wheels (with the...

Scott meant the rear timing cover...it does need to be machined with the block when it is decked. Paul - since you did not deck the block, the above rear timing cover is not the problem. Neither is a MHG rivet judging from the pics in your previous thread. The oil leak is from no RTV on...

Was the block deck machined or not? It's a simple yes or no question ;) The Viton coating is likely fine, you won't know till you look. If the coating is ok, put it back on, put the RTV in the proper place, and torque to 75 ft/lbs using the TSRM sequence in 15 ft/lb increments. Did...

Was the block decked? If not, the rear timing plate is fine. Be aware if the block is not smooth enough, the MHG may not seal. If any rivet touches the block deck, it needs to be removed. If not, it's fine. Just like I said in the previous thread ;) You will have to remove the stud...

A 3-way valve is exactly as the name implies: - Off position - Fluid path #1 - Fluid Path #2 Both fluid paths have a common feed. The common is plumbed into the PS return line from the rack. Fluid path #1 goes to the reservoir. Fluid path #2 is only used for a fluid exchange. Makes...

No it won't...a lot of people don't read the stickies and are search "challenged" ;)

If this is the case, it's very likely the MHG will not seal. An oil leak is very likely if RTV or FPIG was not applied in the locations specified by the TSRM. If this is the case, it's very likely the MHG will not seal. ARP spec for studs is 80 ft/lbs using moly...you do not want...

You might have jumped a timing gear tooth...especially if you did not re-set belt tension after 500 miles or so. Set the crank index at zero and see if the two cam gear marks line up on the index marks on the back cover.

Any oil resistant hose will work. The filter will fit just fine.

If the CEL came on, the ECU stored an error code...you have to check: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx Before you vector off on a wild goose chase, I highly suggest you check the ECU codes. The only way oil could drip on the DP would be from the cam cover...

Sounds like your ISCV is working fine. Have you checked timing with the diagnostic block jumped?

What specific ECU code? Sure it's not coolant? There's a couple coolant hoses near that area. You could add some UV dye to your oil and check with a black light in a couple days. Your oil pressure is in spec: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=LU&P=4...

Not true Kai - I've flushed many without a problem from fresh fluid. I use Mobil 1 synthetic ATF...the only Mobil product I'll use ;) Once you do a flush, it is a perfect time to add an in-line filter to the reservoir return line like JJ alluded to above...works much better than the...

Keep in mind you brought the PCV up, not me, here: A few points: 1) This is the tech section...the posts here need to be accurate. You specifically said that vacuum was not necessary for the 7M PCV. 2) The post before mine was about the air filter...I did not address it because it had...

As long as you realize (as well as the OP) that your opinion is dead nuts wrong. Vacuum is required for the PCV system on the 7M to work correctly...this is not opinion, it's simply a fact. A PCV valve is not used on a 7M because it utilizes a orifice built into the TB instead. The fitting...

Look man, it could be anywhere on the parts of the rotating assembly. FUBAR crank journals, bent rod, damaged piston, scored cylinder, etc. To figure out where, you will have to disassemble the engine and go from there. Any other answer is going to be pure speculation...sorry, but that's the...

If you can't see a hole in the side of the block, you'll have to wait till you pull the motor and take a look ;)

As long as you do not lift the head, the HG will be fine. You will need an ARP nut. Stud torque specs are: Moly - 80 ft/lbs Motor oil - 120 ft/lbs Since you went to 100 ft/lbs, it was not an over torque (a good thing). Read this...click on the link on the left "Using a Torque...

Suggest you get another stud nut, loosen them all up per the TSRM sequence, and re-do. I hope you did not start the engine. This time pay attention to the ARP torque spec...80 ft/lbs with moly for lube.

Excellent find for another piece of the puzzle, but you have to be careful with the way the corporate bastards in the US word the FAQ: Castrol Edge may indeed contain PAO, but the question is how much? The BS a motor oil producer spews out on their oil products can only be carried so far in...