You'd be down to the pan rails in 8 hours....
Mine never took longer than 15 mins using Diamond paste, after 8 hours there's no way possible it would still be flat, it might be smooth but not flat.
Lapping is a finishing process only, you need a flat accurate smooth surface to start with...
Non Crossflows are getting rare these days, for local stuff I use driver/passenger but here IN/EX works ok as most are using a Toyota I-6 ;)
(RHD here)
I remember the horror that was building a twin turbo kit for an L24 back in the later 70's early 80's..
Might just be that I'm cold but I don't form emotional attachments to "things"..
I probably have more blood sweat and tears not to mention $ invested into my cars than most but still don't bond on an emotional level, when it's done it's done I bin it and move on.
They weren't built so Toyota could get into Group A.... :nono:
500 out of the Tens of thousands if not Hundreds of thousands built worldwide were Homologation cars no different to any other manufacturer...
<edit> Total Supra MkIII's produced: 108,565
Different matter if you have a mint...
If you can find a non cracked early frame the late braces are a bolt in, I'd go for something out of an auto NA if I had a choice as it's never been stressed as long as the Diff was bolted in correctly.
Can't understand why everyone is getting a sandy Vag over this...
Over the years as a Mod here I've seen probably 40>50 cars destroyed by members when they fail in a build and end up parting the car, one in particular demolished more Supra's than the "Cars" program a few years back and never...
100% wrong.... :nono:
1st gear and >195 ft/lbs on the bolt and the car will drive forward due to the mechanical advantage from the gearbox reduction, 5th gear is an overdrive therefore no mechanical advantage and you can get the bolt to 195, job done.
Vibrations and leaks as it hammered the front seal in the trans and the rear main seal.. :(
Can't say it was anything like 1lb out though that's pretty damn extreme
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