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Block threads need to be chased as the ARP's go deeper into 20 years of gloop/corrosion. If that wasn't a factor it's fairly simple to install studs into an assembled engine, you remove the factoy bolt use a magnet to remove the washer then drop the ARP Washer in with some Moly lube to hold...

Dunno Dan, just throwing it out there as a possible cause, I'd have ran the engine with the TC bolted up and noted vibration then moved it one hole to the left and tried again repeating for the last hole, I'm assuming a 3 bolt GM convertor? It may be on centre just not parallel this would...

Or the adaptor isn't centre/true/parallel

2004 F Body Pan, Holly make a muscle car pan that will fit and might be a cheaper option. Ditto on the Cubes, I considered a 1UZ but all that work for +1000cc didn't make sense when the 6.0L is about the same physical size. (I still have those mounts and a full adaptor to use an A340E with...

Mounts are simple :)

I always go on the thick side, can make up for any losses with a little more boost :)

It'll bump it a little.

Very welcome! I use these as scavenge pumps for low mount Turbo's, they will make 60 Psi though so would be a good prelube pump.

I ran mine with -10 Lines T'd into my Filter/Cooler relocation setup. The "problem" is on shut down you need to Rev the engine before shutting the valve to charge the accumulator to maximum pressure for the next cold start, this get's Old really quickly... Next issue is on a cold start the...

I ran an electric valve hooked up to the engine management system, for a long time I ran no valve at all as for starvation protection it's not needed. This way it always cycles all it's oil on each start up shut down but this will wear the piston seal after about 8 years ;)

Thanks, been doing this a looooong ass time so pick things up along the way! Pros: Never lost an engine to RK even at .95G sustained cornering Cons: Weight and finding somewhere to mount it in a Mk3!

Fify ;)

I ran an accumulator on my Mk3, using it to prelube was a Major PITA and just too much hassle so I just used it to protect the engine from starvation then set up my ECU so it would crank for xx seconds before firing the engine when below yy Oil Temp, rest of the time the antidrainback valve in...

I tend NOT to break stuff all that often so am not in any way a "Guru" I do like some of the tools you've posted and can see where they'd be very useful!

AFQC seems to have gotten it ;)

Another candidate

Helical extractors tend to expand the broken part as they bite in, the square ones don't and don't seem to be as fragile :) Found the big one when I broke my Banjo then found a small set and now use them instead of the Helicals! (never too old to learn new things and part of why I hang...

10.2mm

Very welcome, glad it worked out for you, I use some Nickle antiseize when I reassemble. (the very first time I pulled a 7M was for this exact same issue... many years ago)

My understanding is the TurboA road cars ran the garden variety CT26, nothing "special" about it at all, the GroupA Race cars were a very different beast as in Jon's pics above.