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Nope no need to remove the bumper cover or bumper itself. Just have to pull the under tray. The stock intercooler pipe that comes up through the passenger fender tends to be a pain in the ass get get out.

Look at my pics. I put the oil cooler behind the hood latch support. That is just one option.

Any recommendations? I couldn't care less about thermal resistance or anything, just need something to protect it from abrasion. Brad the stuff I wrapped my AC lines with was a pretty soft foam, anything that touches it would rip right through it like butter. JJ is the firesleeve strong...

So I decided to use push lock hose for my oil filter relocation that I did with my rebuild, but I am a bit concerned. I have mounted the filter head under the passenger side headlight with the oil lines coming through the factory airbox opening. The oil lines are routed under the power steering...

Here's some pics http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v313/cyfi/Car/Intercooler%20Install/IMG_1951.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v313/cyfi/Car/Intercooler%20Install/IMG_1950.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v313/cyfi/Car/Intercooler%20Install/f6f4df70.jpg...

How do you get it to turn off? Its possible but not likely that it is dieseling.

The "new" kit, which is not actually new. CX Racing has been selling it for quite a while. Driftmotion is just a distributor of it.

Ive got two cranks waiting for the junker...Let me know if you want the plugs from it and I can buzz them out and put them in an envelope.

I'll get some pics for you guys, I have had it installed on my car for a couple years now. It fits well for a bolt on kit. Oil cooler must be relocated and overflow must be relocated. The hood latch support does not need to be trimmed at all.

So I have struggled getting really freezing cold AC in my 86.5 Supra for about 4 years now. Living out in the AZ dessert seemed to take a toll on my stock AC system. I went through it multiple times making sure everything was 100% perfect, and even still it struggled. I did a lot of research and...

Not sure exactly what your argument is. You don't have to like the BOV but are you saying that the manufacturer of the BOV doesn't know how to properly operate it? Fact is it is designed to be open under vac conditions which includes idle, decel, and cruising. Every bypass valve I have had ex...

" It operates in a normally open condition. This means that it is designed to remain open under vacuum conditions." Pulled directly from their site.

I've got mine recirculated for the same reason.

I think the argument is that at higher elevation the turbo will flow more volume of less dense air, making the engine produce the same amount of power. At lower elevation the turbo would flow less volume of more dense air thus making the same power. The wastegate sets pressure by working against...

Is there a mouse in there?

Cant tell you if mine was a fluke but I had a 1 piece aluminum shaft from shaftmasters and had some pretty bad vibration around 110 to 120... Went back to stock with anew ujoints and new center bearing and its smoother than ever.

How about have the driveshaft shop replace your center support bearing and ujoints, and fab a new solid rear section? Then you have the stock driveshaft with a new rear section that does not have the possibility of slipping.

Use water to rinse anything that got brake fluid on it. It will stain the carpet and strip paint.

If you are running rich and dumping fuel into the cat it will smell like that. Sounds like a problem with your fuel control rather than your cat.

I have always been able to get it off without a puller... Carefully pry it gently at two opposite sides at the same time and inch it off. Be careful as its not difficult to break the edge of the pulley, and make sure you pry from two sides at once or the pulley wont be strait and it wont come off.