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There's a Mercedes Benz part which works great for that VSV and is less than half the price (Or was in 1998 when I bought mine) Mercedes Benz part number 001-540-86-97 (It's worth looking into.) That's the part that I've installed in my '89. You need to clip the wiring harness from the stock...

Does it close when the car is off? If not, then it's more likely that the water valve is stuck. I watched mine when I start the car. It moves when there's manifold vacuum to the up position. When the climate control is turned right down, then it goes back down again.

I'll take that bet. :D I've verified that the valve closes on my cars with the climate control set at lowest temperature (18C). I doubt that it 100% closes, of course. I also get some "heat" while just starting out, on hot days, which I attribute to that nice black cowl sitting in the sun. It...

If you remove the head, I would absolutely get the head machined. In which case, you can just give the machine shop the new valve stem seals, since they'll be removing the valves. You cannot (Or really SHOULD not) use a metal head gasket if you remove the head, unless you're going to tear down...

In that case, I believe that I have NDCs. Whew. Dodged that bullet.

If you're going to replace the valve stem seals, it's probably a good idea to plan on replacing a lot of the gaskets on the top of the engine. Valve cover gaskets will almost certainly need to be replaced, and the PCV hoses are probably going to be extra crunchy. If you've got a 7M-GE, you...

What you can get depends a lot on where you get it. Around here, rust free cars are spendy, because we get nasty winters with salty roads for 7 months out of the year, so unless it's only a summer driven car, rust-free just doesn't happen. Summer only driven cars tend to be owned by people who...

Door pin switches tend to fail open, that is, they would fail to activate the alarm, even if the door opens. Not likely that one of these is causing false alarms, unless your door strikers are completely fubar. I'm not familiar with the TTDS hood pin switch, as it was not offered up here, but I...

Check operation of the heater VSV. Some of those are bypassed so that the heater valve flows full time regardless of if the climate control wants it on. That means that the heater core is hot, so... I believe that it's normal for there to be some airflow even if the fan isn't on.

Crap. Now I'm wondering what I put in my 7M...

It's understandable when the Driftmotion picture for the Clevite 7M bearings is this:

The only problem dropping the R154 gives me is the starter. I really want to get a started with threaded holes to make this easier, the top bolt/nut on the starter is so far my least favorite fastener anywhere on the A70 chassis. No, I did not have to rotate the transmission at all to get it...

Well, but that's still coming off of the main EFI relay, same as +B and +B1 unless that were used to trigger yet another relay (Not that I'm totally averse to this, it just seems inconvenient, and I'd rather do this closer to the ECU if this is how it's going to be.) If anything, I'd rather...

I'm looking at adding a couple of things to my '90 ECU, and was curious as to the best strategy for power. I don't want to overload the fuse to the TCCS, and I'm having some trouble finding power requirements for things. On the other hand, I really want to avoid relying on an otherwise...

Two words: Project car.

A local guy here has 4 of my stock head bolts, with which he mounted a 2JZ to a stand, so yes. They work, but of course the length needed depends on the stand.

Mine was. I put a half million kilometers on it with regular maintenance. Until it was over 400,000 km, the most expensive thing that I had to fix was buying a new A/C compressor. (Well, I spent more on the timing belts, clutches, and even brakes, but those were all what I consider to be regular...

Uh, no. If you get the 60-1 rebuilt, then you'll need to get it rebuilt with the same wheel.

Well, I'm not expecting the bars to make the chassis as rigid as with the roof on. It'd be NICE if they did that, but I'm not expecting it. I just want to lose the feel that the front half the car isn't really connected to the back half.

Easiest option is a rebuilt/upgraded CT26. Personally, I recommend the 57 trim option for the CT upgrade, but the 60-1 should be fine with reasonable care. This will be close enough to stock to be easy to assemble/diagnose issues with getting it running. If anything, your '91 ECU/harness is...