Well, you'll need to do something about the pedal assembly. Swap those from your parts car. There's lots of 5 speed swap threads around, most of those will contain information you need. I haven't done it, so I can't really say for 100%. You'll also have to deal with the ECT ECU hopefully that...
Well, more reading, and my conclusion is that lower is indeed better. I'm going to aim to have it near the #1 crossmember. I really like the idea of running the wires through the shifter hole, but up by the starter with the reverse lights and ABS speed sensor wires should be a reasonably safe...
Keep in mind that many A70 owners are "Amazed at the difference that strut braces make"
I bought a strut brace, and indeed, I thought that it made things better... Then I decided to test to see what it's actually doing.
Install strut brace endpoints on the strut towers, bolt aluminum bar stock...
Information on life expectancy, and "ideal location" taken from things said here, and this document
Interestingly enough, Bosch (The maker of the sensors) seems more interested in telling me where I can find the OEM sensor, and how to replace it with one of theirs, in the same location.
At...
Okay, I see lots of pictures of downpipes, turbo elbows and other things with a wideband sensor right next to the stock sensor location.
I've read a number of documents that say not to place the sensor right next to the turbo outlet, place more than 15 degrees from horizontal and 10 degrees...
You don't need to remove the cam to get to the head bolts. You may need to rotate the cam to #1 TDC/compression, but you don't need to remove it. I've never removed the cams when pulling a 7M head.
P.S. A more descriptive thread title than "please help" would be useful.
Back in 1997, I just made my own tweeter pods in that location using the Supra parts, a Kicker titanium tweeter, some body filler, and stretch carpet that about perfectly matched the med. grey interior. (In retrospect, though, I'd have just done the extra sanding and painted them gloss black.)...
Valve cover gaskets will cause loss of oil, but not pressure, unless you lose enough oil to have not enough in the pan for the oil pickup.
There are coolant lines that run under the exhaust manifold, with a rubber cap (Which you saw) near the back of the engine, also a small 90 degree bend hose...
It doesn't matter. Use the motor mounts that come with the shell you use, and you'll be fine. Electronically, the '89 is the same all the way through (According to Jeff Lange, Dr Tweak says that there's a "minor change" in the wiring harness somewhere. Using an '89 shell is really the best bet...
Probably your MAF translator can be programmed to give you what you what you need for larger injectors.
You still haven't answered my questions from page 1.
Having some idea of goals for the car would be good. What kind of budget you have would also help us determine if it's realistic for...
Well, to nitpick, timing should be set to 10 deg BTDC with terminals Te1 and E1 jumpered at the check connector, and more than 12 degrees BTDC at idle with the jumper disconnected
I'm reminded of a fellow who managed to set his CPS 180 degrees out. Ignition timing looked perfect on the light...
Went to post office, and picked up the Apexi MAP sensor for the AVC-R.
Looked at my field harness... And added the wiring for the Apexi Neo to it. For now, the AFM signal is just jumpered closed, since I don't know if I'm actually going to install the Neo in the car yet. This means that I will...
Vaseline isn't going to hurt anything that would normally be in contact with oil or gasoline. It should also not hurt anything that would be in contact with brake fluid, power steering fluid, or transmission fluid either, but it may not be so okay to have in contact with those fluids.
There are...
No, I think that cruise control is important. It keeps me from getting speeding tickets. the Supra is way too easy to suddenly find that you're going way faster than you'd intended. you speed up a little to get around that guy in front of you, then "forget" to slow down again. Soon there are...
1AWG is either overkill, or not enough. The chassis of the car will only carry as much current for the ground side of things as 4AWG, so more than that isn't getting you much.
In my stereo competition days, I used a length of 1/2" copper plumbing pipe run underneath the car along the frame rail...
I still think it'd be worth putting a timing light on it. If it runs at +12 on the cam gear, and "sounds like the timing is way off" when it isn't... Maybe the timing is way off? (Only mentioned it because of all the things that you tried, that wasn't one you mentioned in the thread.)
Turned over 280,000 km. I've got to pull the motor from the '89. I'm going to take the few parts that I'm still short on assembling the engine from it so that I can things back underway.
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