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Back when my '89 was still very new, I drove it from here to Tulsa, OK. 3 days there, 16 hours or so behind the wheel. Set the cruise, and go. My wife and I tented. She was really really sick for the trip down, and so didn't do any of the driving. She did help with setting up and tearing down...

Yeah, it's discouraging when a project just doesn't come together, but it feels pretty good to finish in the end.

No, you cannot modify the existing one, you will need a replacement. The ECU is completely different, and the electronic package under the hood is different. The 7M-GE wiring harness will not deal with the AFM, CPS, igniter, or coil packs. It probably wouldn't quite deal with the TPS, or ISC...

I have the Tanabe Hyper Medallion, a Random technology downpipe and the LIPP elbow. The exhaust was originally installed in my '89, and is now in the '90. No problems with clearance, using 3 hangers in the back. (The RT downpipe has no provision to use the front hangar by the transmission mount.)

LED is more than capable of matching or bettering any reasonable or even legal headlight output. It's when people think that a single LED device can match a 400W metal halide HID that I start to shake my head.

They've been forecasting rain for the last week, and it never happened, so today I washed and waxed it. Naturally, it started pouring about 10 minutes later. Targa seals leak pretty bad, but I've ordered new ones. Can't wait for them to arrive.

Codes only go away when you reset the ECU. It stores them. If you're still getting a code 22, you should check the sensor connection. Most of these codes are "open or short" codes, meaning either the wire is disconnected, or shorted to ground.

If you are prepping for a MHG, you'll have the block torn down. (You need to in order to deck the head surface) Since you're having that done, get them to magnaflux the block, hone the cylinders and line bore the mains at the very least. You should also have them polish the crank and re-size...

Appearance is a personal thing. The wire-tucked, polished chrome look is kinda retro, but does look nice. I'm not at the point where I care so much about what it looks like. Probably if I did, I'd start looking to make some sort of cover, like newer cars have so that you can't see any of the...

Okay, what you need to do is find someone local who knows how to do this stuff and have him/her show you. It's extremely basic knowledge to test wires with a multimeter. Read the TEWD from the start, where it tells you what the diagrams mean. It will tell you how to figure out how to count which...

I could get a free 2JZ-GTE... and it would STILL be cheaper to build a 7M-GTE and drop it into my car. Unless the Free 2JZ-GTE also came with a free wiring harness adapted for the A70 chassis, ECU, and R154 bellhousing.

Last I checked, DOT doesn't "Approve" anything. They set out standards, and products either comply, or do not.

That's a leftover from when the 4M and earlier had a distributor there, running off of the oil pump driveshaft. Related: the "J tube" plate is left over from when the M had a mechanical fuel pump, which ran off of a cam from the oil pump driveshaft.

What would your built engine power goals be? If the 7M can make it, then use the 7M. In a nutshell: 1. You already have it. 2. You already have EVERYTHING that you need to make it bolt into the car. 3. Money spent on it is to make things better and faster, not just make it work.

Not I. I can't afford that kind of coin. As to why people "throw the 7M under the bus" it's pure and simple. The 7M does have an issue with head gaskets. The problem is then compounded by people doing improper repairs. Let's say a shop who does not know these engines, and then puts things back...

In all the time that I've owned a 7M (About 19 years, now) I've had 2 blown head gaskets. Neither of them on a 7M. I figure that a JZ does have more potential than a 7M. It had better, it's a newer block and head design. When I was choosing an engine for my '89NA, I considered the 7MJ-GTE, the...

Okay, got the transmission out of the '90 today. Removed the flywheel (It looks awful, it's definitely been overheated. Cracks visible on the friction surface, probably junk.) Bolted the flywheel from the '89 in. That clutch is just past break-in, so no need to machine the surface. Torqued the...

So what was different from my 12 years of 7M-GE ownership... Bought the car Feb 29, 1996. Joined the mailing list at supras.com by June. Re-torqued factory head bolts to 72 ft-lbs when I did the timing belt in May 1997. Zero issues (Excluding A/C where I had largish issues for a while) until...