Search results

Factory alarm doesn't have (AFAIK) a shock sensor, either, though one COULD be wired in easily enough. The location for THOSE should all be in the TEWD online at CygnusX1

If you're going to go V8, then you'd better be decent with fabrication work. Lots of things to make fit that don't want to. Very easy to go over budget. You should probably get any motor built (Or for a Chev V8, you could go with a crate motor, probably the cheapest way to get a known good...

Pressure enough to hit the wheel well? Like maybe more than 4.3 PSI, which the TSRM specifies as minimum at idle? I already don't trust the gauge, or at least it's connection. That's the good thing with a mechanical, harder to screw up. Siezing the turbo sucks, but lots of possible things there.

For 3k, it's got to be another 7M, and you'll have to do a lot of the work.

If you can find a make and model. The small box with the light looks more like a shock sensor than the alarm brain to me, Somewhere there should be a brain module, with a better part number on it, possibly a brand name.

Yes, the release bearing is supposed to spin at flywheel speeds. It is intended to remain in contact with the pressure plate, which is bolted to the flywheel. Even if it was only supposed to be in contact when you disengage the clutch, it would have to spin up to speed quickly. This would...

True, however I'd never heard of a US model NA that had the LSD without the sport package, so I assume that it would be very rare for just the LSD option to have been selected. Of course my '89 is a Canadian model, so it has it. In any case, checking the vehicle data tag is going to be the best...

NOT what the TSRM Page LU-4 says. TSRM says idle should be 4.3PSI or more, and at 3000 RPM, 36PSI or more. If you are getting less than that, shutting down is the correct response. Do you still have the stock gauge? Sounds like you're using aftermarket. Where did you connect it for...

If your NA had the sport package (Or was a Canadian model) then it will have limited slip, which will help with traction. Otherwise, it's open (Look at the data tag in the driver's door, it will list the differential code as G284 or G285. The 4 is open, the 5 is limited slip.) The NA...

Buy a "heavy duty" flasher, and replace the one you have. Your LED signal lights will work properly then. The regular flashers use the load of the lamps as a timing element. They do that deliberately so that a quick flash alerts you to the fact that a lamp is burned out. the tail lamp failure...

Machine shop can do the valve job without the shims, but of course you need them for the gap. The shims come in varying thicknesses, and what you'll need depends on where the actual valve stems end up after they're seated. Not having any at all makes the TSRM proceedure impossible (Measure the...

Don't replace them with studs. If you still have the factory head bolts installed, re-torque them to 72 ft-lbs. This will still be somewhat difficult to do accurately without removing the bolts, but is far less likely to cause a problem than replacing with studs. 72 ft-lbs is what the factory...

Just the needle position. If your odometer is wrong, due to changing the differential gearing, non-standard tire size, or wrong speedo gear, then you need to adapt it. If it's just the wrong gears (Pre-89 R154 with a post-89 differential for example) then you're best off just getting the...

The walbro 255 should be fine as a stock replacement. I've heard people say that they should be run full time 12V, and that the J tube restriction should therefore be removed, but I have not read the technical specs thoroughly enough to know if it really might have problems with the FP resistor...

DDP should really only change the sound when you're at the boost pressure that your wastegate is open. At that point, it's definitely going to get louder (Unless your DDP is recirculated, in which case... Probably zero difference.) A larger DP than stock will help with flow through the turbo...

Apply a vacuum pump to the heater valve when you flush, too, otherwise whatever's in the coolant lines to the heater core won't get flushed, because the valve will be closed. As to where the crap is coming from... A test. Is it iron? Simple. Use a magnet. If that picks it up, it's ferrous...

Driftmotion W58 clutch cover bolts Driftmotion flywheel to crank bolts (Stupid things are 1/2" 12 point drive. Factory are 17mm head) Slave to bellhousing I'm 99% sure is an M8x1.25mm thread, and somewhat noncritical for grade The bolts for the shifter to the transmission are M6x1.0mm. I...

6-10 mph at what speed? Does it get further out as you go faster? How about your odometer? If you pull the instrument panel, you can adjust the zero for the needle. I need to do this a bit for my car again. Once the speedometer is out, there's a lever which adjusts the spring tension, which...

I still have an AFM. It's a Lexus AFM, but something like this still ought to fit. I needed to grind out a couple of the bolt holes for mine and get it to fit correctly, but it's been fine for a good long time now.

Random technology (racing) downpipe, LIPP elbow, and Tanabe Hyper Medallion exhaust. With that behind the 60-1 turbonetics bolt-on, it was the quietest exhaust at one of the local meets, from idle all the way to WOT. The one guilty bit with it is that there's no cat, nor is there a way to add...