Search results

If you need, I have an '89 NA 5 speed ECU sitting on a shelf. It'd probably cost me $35 to ship, but it's yours for that. Find and fix your wiring fault, of course. I'd disconnect the ECU, start at TSRM Page FI-30 and work from there. I think that the '89 pin diagram is slightly different...

+1 for JDM charcoal canister. The 1JZ one is much smaller. I know that there are other dipstick options. I re-bent mine on the '89. Get a tubing bender (Made for brake/hydraulic/fuel lines) at Princess Auto and you can make adjustments to the dipstick location. I have mine so that it can hang...

IMO it's so hard to make a FFIM look right on a 7M, and I've still never seen anyone with proof that there's any actual benefit that can't be gained with the regular manifold. (Unless someone out there has a 100mm throttle body or something that couldn't possibly fit on the stock manifold, and...

Considering the engine bay design... The factory air box is actually a pretty good CAI.

With my HKS SSQV, I found it embaressing every time the thing would vent, particularly shifting next to a Geo or some such. I was so much happier with the recirculation fitting when the noise stopped.

Yes, I would still remove the relay in the hatch, and just connect the L-B wire together again. The wire that you're using isn't any heavier than the factory wiring is, and won't carry any more current. The only part of that that I would keep is the bypass of the resistor under the hood, but...

What I see there indicates a wiring fault. The one terminal that you tested in the picture appears to be one of the two relay control terminals (85/86). The one exactly opposite it should go to ground, and when it has +12V the relay should switch on. The top terminal appears to be the N.O...

Let me clarify that... Install another knock sensor. Buy a tap, tap the threads on the block for the front and rear knock sensor locations. Move the GE knock sensor from the middle to the front, install another one in the rear location. Wire appropriately.

Back window is the same on any A70 chassis. I believe that this would include the narrowbody GA70 as well, but I haven't had the chance to test that. Power window is more likely the switch than the motor. I would definitely try the switches before replacing the motor.

Buy another knock sensor. The bosses for the sensors are on the block. There are 3 of them. The GE got a sensor in the middle, the GTE got the front and rear. My '89 GE block actually had the bosses for the sensors all tapped, so I could have installed sensors in the front and rear. Not all of...

Why do you think that the fan relay is bad? Relays are dirt simple to test, and they pretty much work or do not work. Check continuity/resistance. Apply power across coil, check continuity/resistance. Did it close the circuit? If so, it works. If not, it doesn't. Point being that ordering a...

40 should be safe. I went with 38 because I figured that the middle of the stock range was a good place to start, and then I figured that a little high was probably better than a little low.

Absolutely. take a look at the wiring diagram. The passenger side window circuit must go through both switches in order to do anything. This is so that you don't get a nasty short if the driver says "UP" and the passenger says "DOWN" -- you end up getting nothing. either switch for the passenger...

There's always the possibility that the sensor got blown out of the tailpipe at 4k RPM. :p But I'd want confirmation, just to be safe.

@davidlkirby: You mean the mod that bypasses the starter relay with a relay? As it says in the title... read the whole thread. There is definitely a better way to fix that. Take a look at the TEWD Page 38. Unless your car is a Canadian spec auto (Guessing it's neither Canadian, nor auto), the...

With the Lexus/550 mod, I ran my FP at 38 PSI with vacuum disconnected. Setting at idle is somewhat dependant on other variables, so I didn't, I did verify that connecting vacuum to the FPR dropped fuel pressure at idle.

AFR of 18 = scary! That said, dyno wideband sensors go int he tailpipe, so if there's anywhere that could be getting air into the exhaust system (Which is anywhere that might be leaking exhaust) then their accuracy isn't guaranteed. If there's non-exhaust air in the system, then it will show...

Just don't cheap out on basic maintenance. At the very least, regular oil changes, 2 year coolant flushes, and a seasonal inspection of the cooling system (Debris likes to collect between the A/C condenser and the radiator. Make sure you check.) Change belts and cooling hoses before they fail...

Ah, so that's what the plastic cap is for. I haven't removed it yet. I hope never to be able to make an informed opinion on a $2 hooker. :p I'll have to see what "slow" means. More research. Is it the wideband that's slow, or the switching circuit for the simulated output? I can think of...

@IJ: I don't plan on using any kind of sealant on the sensor, there are just dire warnings about any silicone used as a sealant anywhere in the intake/exhaust stream somehow contaminating the sensor. Anti-seize is probably a good idea though. I know that household silicone outgasses some pretty...