lithium14;1760491 said:
My questions thus far are: given I lower with Eibachs and tokico illumina TEMS shocks, how flush will i get with Work Emotions XT-7 F)18x8.5 +25 R)18.9.5 +20? I had previously worked out with a friend that the "perfect" setup would be F)18X9 +25 R)18x10 +20. So same offsets with wheels a half inch apart in width... any help will be spectacular. Thanks!!!
Sounds like it'll fit fine when you drop it, on the wider rims. I'd wait for someone else to confirm, because I've never had stock fenders, but the width and offset is in the right neighborhood. The skinnier ones will be ~6mm closer to the hub on both sides, so just roll the fenders a little more. Think you'll have to stick with a 265 or maybe a 255 out back, it'll be pretty tight. Dylan JZ has fitment pretty similar to that.
lithium14;1760491 said:
Ok peeps. I have spent several hours over a couple months poring over this and other threads like it, and the more I think, the more I get frustrated and confused. I think we should also include lowering height requirement for successful fitments. just my 0.02.
Lowering does many things...I'm working on a spreadsheet that calculates a lot of the fitment variables...300+ rows of fitment dimensions. Don't even ask how long that took to input, let alone figure out the formulas to manipulate all that data. For one, it increases available backspacing in the rear...in other words, you can run more positive offset/wider rim without doing anything more to the fender. Up front, it actually decreases available backspace...opposite effect. Lowering also adds a natural camber due to the way our suspension geometry works, and past a certain point (~1.5/1.75" front/rear, for the record) you can't avoid negative camber even if you wanted to. But, if I'm interpreting my results correctly, the difference is fairly minimal; a stock sawblade on a slammed car should suck in by about 12-13mm front and rear.
Dylan JZ;1759690 said:
10/11s would be awesome, but from what I've seen, one can barely use the proper tires on the 9/10s, so. perhaps that is why overfenders exist
Yes it is...but overfenders come with their own problems. I have 2" overs in the front, ~6" overfenders in the back (and yes, it's a production bodykit. Wektor BM1). I
could try to get it flush, but I'd end up with an 18x17, -50 ET to get maximum tire and rim...can't even buy a DOT-approved tire that wide, or even stretch a 355/30 over that much bead width. Don't think slicks come that big, either. The other problem is that you can't roll fiberglass, you can only sand it to get rid of the inside lip, which weakens the panel quite a bit and makes it floppy at speed. But I digress...
So, with my aforementioned calculator, I've figured that we have approximately 85/100mm (F/R) clearance from hubs to a rolled-flat fender lip without a pull, and ~175mm backspacing on both ends. Mathematically, that means we can run 255/275 at max on a stock body with no camber; however, once it does come into play, shit gets crazy because the distance between the hub and the outside face of the rim (meaning width AND offset play with this number) changes the angle at which the outside face of the rim sits on, changing the whole ball game again.
Here's a question for you though...if I were to go ahead and get a set of 17x11/14's, would the -60 offset rears mess with the rim's load capacity? And would a 335 (or even a 355) be a stretch on it? Also, how would the outboard movement of tire (ie...sitting ~5" out from the stockers in back, ~2" in front) and the difference in tire size (275-295 fronts, 335-355 rears) affect the handling of the car?