Well you all, lets see if this next post can help
Today while the carpet installers are installing the carpet downstairs I decided to see if I could modify my stock fuel sending unit to work with the new gauge cluster. When you pull the stock sender out, bend back the three tabs that hold the little tin cover on. After you get that done, you should have something that looks like this.
Before you go any further, I want to remind you that this assembly has most likely been sitting immersed in fuel. I would recommend that you spray the sending unit with electrical parts cleaner and let it dry completely. You don't want to be catching yourself on fire here. :: angry :: Also, I get the feeling I need to say this as well. Don't do this around the gas tank. Anyway, now that my conscience is clear, lets move on.
See the wire that is soldered to that post? you can see it curling around the rod down to the Low Fuel Warning Sensor. Unsolder the wire from the post and unscrew the two screws that hold the post on. That whole assembly isn't needed for the digital dash.
Now, flip the whole assembly over, You will see 2 more posts at the top. One is connected to a piece of metal leading to the resistance circuit and the other is connected to a green wire going to the wiper assembly. For a reference, see below. JDM sensor is on the right, the sensor we are working on is on the left, with the yellow sleeve over the harness:
Now, if you look closely, you will see a notch in the top right side of the resistance board. Take a look at this picture for help:
Sorry, I had to do all this in photobucket and apparently you can't draw straight lines in the editor.:3d_frown: Anyway, that notch is there to hold the end of the resistance wire to prevent the whole coil from unwinding. You will need to take a small flathead screwdriver (like a jewelers screwdriver) and pop out the wire so you can unwrap it ONE revolution. When you are done, it should look like this:
The camera had a hard time focusing on just the single strand of wire, but hopefully you can see what I'm talking about. Now, that wire is covered in an enamel coating for insulation. You will need to take some 300-400 grit sandpaper and CAREFULLY sand off the insulation about 1/4" from the end. It will look shiny when you have removed the enamel.
Remember the green wire that went to the wiper? You are going to unsolder that wire and solder it to the post that the Low Fuel sensor was hooked to. It should look like this when you are done:
Now, flip it back over so you the resistance board and wiper assembly is facing you. Take that sanded piece of wire and solder it to the post that the green wire was formerly connected to. It should look like this when you are done:
At this point, that resistance wire can gradually slack up. You don't want that. What you will want to do is apply some gasoline-safe adhesive to the backside (the side away from the wiper arm; don't let anything get on the wiper arm or the wire surface that it actually wipes) so that the wire remains coiled up nicely. I used Eclectic adhesive from Autozone.
Now, you may want to plug it in the tank and enjoy your working digital dash fuel gauge. Don't. The pinout is different and you don't want to fry the gauge (smoke) or the sender (boom). You need to swap 2 pins over. As you are looking at the sender connector (male pins facing you), top left is Yellow with a Green stripe, top right is White with Black stripe, bottom left is Black, and bottom right is Red with Blue stripe. If you look closely, the connector is a front-release connector, which for this situation means that you can take a small jewelers flathead and going above the pin, lift the plastic tab holding it in and pull it out the back. Do it for the top left and bottom right pins. When you are done, it should look like this:
Now switch places of them. It should look like this now:
Put the Red with Blue stripe wire in the top left and the Yellow with Green stripe in the bottom right. Place the tin cover back on the sender and it should resemble this:
Install the sender back in the tank. If your tank is a couple gallons short of full (like mine is) it should look like this:
and save you from having to source (and overpay for) a ridiculously hard to find part. Enjoy!