Project Git 'er done!: Stages 1, 2…now 3.

supraguy@aol

Well-Known Member
Dec 30, 2005
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37
48
Atlanta
Yup.
Doing some quick calculations, and assuming a normal amount of material removal by the machine shop,
a 3mm head gasket would put me aroun 8:1 CR.
 

supraguy@aol

Well-Known Member
Dec 30, 2005
4,232
37
48
Atlanta
No, looks like i'll probably be sitting at my computer, ordering the Spec 2+ clutch when the apocalypse hits.
Knowing that i won't complete it before armageddon is a bit disappointing, but at least working on the Supra keeps me from getting too down about it.
 

supraguy@aol

Well-Known Member
Dec 30, 2005
4,232
37
48
Atlanta
Finally picked up my block/ crank from the machine shop:

Block- decked, linebored, honed:

2012-11-13_15-27-29_112.jpg

Crank, polished, and balanced with the rotating assembly.

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New squirter bolts:

2012-11-13_15-58-05_842.jpg
Also done, was a check/ resize of the rods, and the machinist ordered/ supplied the ARP mains, and all bearings as well.
Next, I will install new oil pump shaft bearings, and paint the block prior to assembly.
 
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supraguy@aol

Well-Known Member
Dec 30, 2005
4,232
37
48
Atlanta
I still have to put one more coat and then clearcoat, but here's just a quick glimpse of it:

Primered:

2012-11-21_14-00-41_518.jpg
Painted

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ARP's test fitted

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Still have to install the oil driveshaft bearings tomorrow, before I can do any real construction. But now I have *almost* everything I need to turn it into a longblock.
 
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supraguy@aol

Well-Known Member
Dec 30, 2005
4,232
37
48
Atlanta
So, I go to begin engine assembly today, and I realize that I can't really trust my old craftsman 1/2" drive torque wrench any more, as I had noticed that
when I set it to like 40 ft-lbs, it would just keep torquing, and not click. So I didn't want to use it without having it calibrated first. So I figure- hey, it's a craftsman,
they'll calibrate it. I go to Sears, and they send me to the sevice dept, and I tell the guy I need my TW calibrated. He says "uhh...we don't do that on premises, we send it to
a place in Texas that does it." I'm like, ok- how long's that gonna take? He says " about a week, and it costs $80. I'm like "What?!?" It didn't cost $80 new! :aigo:
So for $20 more, I just went over to the new wrenches, and picked one out:

2012-11-25_15-54-53_744.jpg
Anyway, I got a little bit done after I finished painting and clear-coating the block.
Installed the freeze plugs, installed the oil driveshaft bearings(PITA), plasti-gauged the mains and installed the crank, and then assembled the pistons onto the rods.
Tomorrow, I will finish checking the ring gaps, install said rings, and install the pistons/ rods into the block.

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Getting there. Only about $2,500 more to spend on the engine/tranny. Then on to the interior.
 

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supraguy@aol

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Dec 30, 2005
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Thanks.
It's kind of a candy apple color from VHT. Had to order it because none of my local auto parts stores seemed to carry it.
 

supraguy@aol

Well-Known Member
Dec 30, 2005
4,232
37
48
Atlanta
Today's progress:

2012-11-26_14-58-23_654.jpg

Next up is to install the oil pump driveshaft, oil pump, oil pan & front timing cover.
 

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supraguy@aol

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Dec 30, 2005
4,232
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48
Atlanta
Well, if you use head bolts, you don't engage the threads as far down as they go.
Dunno if the studs thread down further, but using a bottom tap hits those dark scary places.

Oil driveshaft, oil pump and Arizona performance supply pipe, done.

2012-11-26_20-47-37_182.jpg

Oh- forgot:
I also had my machine shop mill down the crankshaft pulley bolt to 45mm for the ATI superdamper:

2012-11-26_21-09-06_688.jpg
 
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Grandavi

Active Member
Sep 25, 2008
2,663
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38
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
In the Toyotaverse.... I bought 17 bolts for 75.00...

Meanwhile... Toyota's board members sit chuckling at the table.. as they relate how much those idiot North American devils paid for a bolt.
I believe it is a contest... no winner announced yet...