Project Git 'er done!: Stages 1, 2…now 3.
- Thread starter supraguy@aol
- Start date
Update:
Wiseco pistons in 83.5mm ordered.
Once they arrive, the block can go to the machine shop.
Wiseco pistons in 83.5mm ordered.
Once they arrive, the block can go to the machine shop.
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I love this build! I plan on following a very similar path, starting with a complete suspension overhaul.
I'm curious what the EZ Street coilovers ride like and how much $$ you put into your entire suspension set up.
Keep up the great work.
I'm curious what the EZ Street coilovers ride like and how much $$ you put into your entire suspension set up.
Keep up the great work.
Hmm... Total cost of suspension:
Rear subframe weld. Free
Fr and rear subframe poly bushings 220
Megan ez street coilovers. 700
Energy susp. F&R bushings. 120
Oem rear spherical bushings. 100
Reman'd steering rack. 175
New balljoints & outer tie rods. 80
Front cobra rotors. 140
Stainless brakeline set. 140
Cobra adapters. 180
Cobra calipers/ brackets. 200
Fr and rear pads, shim kits. 80
Upper front a arms. 200
Total. 2300+
I already had the ST sway bars and adjustable end links.
Oops- Forgot to add: 2 new rear half shafts- $175
Rear subframe weld. Free
Fr and rear subframe poly bushings 220
Megan ez street coilovers. 700
Energy susp. F&R bushings. 120
Oem rear spherical bushings. 100
Reman'd steering rack. 175
New balljoints & outer tie rods. 80
Front cobra rotors. 140
Stainless brakeline set. 140
Cobra adapters. 180
Cobra calipers/ brackets. 200
Fr and rear pads, shim kits. 80
Upper front a arms. 200
Total. 2300+
I already had the ST sway bars and adjustable end links.
Oops- Forgot to add: 2 new rear half shafts- $175
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They have arrived.
Time to go to the machine shop.
Next parts on the list:
ARP mains
AZ oil supply pipe
Time to go to the machine shop.
Next parts on the list:
ARP mains
AZ oil supply pipe
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Block, crank, piston, rods and front timing cover have been brought to the machine shop.
They will be ordering the main studs for me. Hopefully, I'll have some nice engine pics for you all in a couple of weeks.
They will be ordering the main studs for me. Hopefully, I'll have some nice engine pics for you all in a couple of weeks.
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I am enjoying this build, I would love to know what your power goals are. I am in the process of a similar build, but am focusing on the engine, and electronics part first. then suspension and body.
I am planning on going with Wiesco pistons also, what made you go for them over the others? I already have some eagle rods.
I am planning on going with Wiesco pistons also, what made you go for them over the others? I already have some eagle rods.
I chose Wiseco because A: they were ~$200 cheaper than CP & lighter than Ross, and B: the skirts are coated and the pin bore is offset to reduce piston slap. That part may be true of other pistons out there, but i havdn't heard of any.
My power goal is ~400RWHP to start. I am overbuilding this motor so that I can't outgrow it's potential. I may look for as high as 550RWHP with the proper fuel and boost, but I would be happy with the lower number. I probably would have gotten Eagle rods as well, but I luckily ran across someone selling some Cunningham rods in the for sale section. These rods look more like carillo's to me(A beam vs. H beam).
My power goal is ~400RWHP to start. I am overbuilding this motor so that I can't outgrow it's potential. I may look for as high as 550RWHP with the proper fuel and boost, but I would be happy with the lower number. I probably would have gotten Eagle rods as well, but I luckily ran across someone selling some Cunningham rods in the for sale section. These rods look more like carillo's to me(A beam vs. H beam).
supraguy@aol;1879823 said:
Good to hear. I have heard the CP's, or JE's slap at least when cold, that is why I do not want them, and I love the skirt coating. I have some higher goals in the end, but I think I will be happy with some Wisecos also.
I had my eyes on a set of Pauters, but they sold. I heard eagles can hold on just fine at my goals. I heard of some people shot peening their stock rods, and using some ARP bolts in them, and they can hold up at my goals, so I figure that a set of forged rods will be a little better than stock shot peened.
Agreed. I suppose that Pauters and Carillo's are at the top of the food chain, but Cunningham/ Eagle will do what we need.
I had heard that Eagles should be sized prior to install; perhaps somebody has gotten a few that needed some adjustment.
As for slap, I think it's a minor issue with any piston, so long as the piston to wall clearance is kept at manufacturer's specification.
I had heard that Eagles should be sized prior to install; perhaps somebody has gotten a few that needed some adjustment.
As for slap, I think it's a minor issue with any piston, so long as the piston to wall clearance is kept at manufacturer's specification.
Welp.
I didn't want to spend the money, but I'm going to anyway...
Next purchase, torque plate from SIP racing.
I just don't want to skimp now, and regret it later.
I didn't want to spend the money, but I'm going to anyway...
Next purchase, torque plate from SIP racing.
I just don't want to skimp now, and regret it later.
noob question....whats a torque plate?
youtube answered question..
so how detrimental is this plate?
youtube answered question..
so how detrimental is this plate?
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Do you mean how detrimental is it Not to use the plate?
Not that much. You will usually end up with a slightly out-of-round cylinder without it, and therefore a slight compression loss, and oil consumption, but again, very slight. However, it becomes more of an issue when you go past 500+ hp. I plan to build this motor to handle 800+hp, though i will only be asking 400+ from it for the time being.
Not that much. You will usually end up with a slightly out-of-round cylinder without it, and therefore a slight compression loss, and oil consumption, but again, very slight. However, it becomes more of an issue when you go past 500+ hp. I plan to build this motor to handle 800+hp, though i will only be asking 400+ from it for the time being.
Well, i dont believe that factory motors were torque plate bored/ honed, but the distortion is very small without it, and isnt as much of an issue with cast pistons and lower power levels. Are you sending a block out for work soon?
All i have done was a shade tree hone (sandpaper,elbow grease,auto transfluid) before rings and bearings went in on rebuild using original rotating assembly. still using cast parts so my goals are low right now but someday i want 600hp-700hp