First car, First Build. 1jz-gte 1990 Supra

1990MA70

Member
Nov 8, 2013
110
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16
Cochrane, AB
Hey everyone, need some advice quick. So i started mocking up everything and it all looked great but, The flange on my manifold is not very flat. to the point where you can feel the curves, dips, uneven-ness just by running your finger over it. It dips down the worst right where the flange divides in the middle. here are some shitty pictures I took quick to maybe give an idea
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The spots that are bad are on the edges where it dips off and as i said in the divide. I'm bad at explaining, sorry. If i have to i can get the gf to bring her beast camera and i can find a metal ruler to maybe show it better. Its a Driftmotion manifold. So my question is; are other manifolds like this? or did i just get a shitty manifold. If i have to ill look into getting it machined, if you guys think thats what has to be done. but i have no idea how much that costs or if i should just be looking at getting a different manifold. Any advice would be much appreciated. Need to figure this out so i can order the t3 adapter which will be another 100$ on top :/
 

#04

New Member
Sep 7, 2009
526
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Cambridge
I had to send my ebay y-pipe out, its a lot easier if you hang out with tool/die makers/CNC machinist's...

but yeah, I would probably have that tended to, simpler than doing it twice...

I believe mine was surfaced on a belt/table sander.... on a couple of 15 minute breaks, just a matter of finding the right person/shop...
 

1990MA70

Member
Nov 8, 2013
110
0
16
Cochrane, AB
Manifold Is getting machined as im typing this. Friend of mine got me a wicked price of 10$ and a redbull. Tear down (hopfully) starts next week
 
1990MA70;1994157 said:
Hey everyone, need some advice quick. So i started mocking up everything and it all looked great but, The flange on my manifold is not very flat. to the point where you can feel the curves, dips, uneven-ness just by running your finger over it. It dips down the worst right where the flange divides in the middle. here are some shitty pictures I took quick to maybe give an idea

The spots that are bad are on the edges where it dips off and as i said in the divide. I'm bad at explaining, sorry. If i have to i can get the gf to bring her beast camera and i can find a metal ruler to maybe show it better. Its a Driftmotion manifold. So my question is; are other manifolds like this? or did i just get a shitty manifold. If i have to ill look into getting it machined, if you guys think thats what has to be done. but i have no idea how much that costs or if i should just be looking at getting a different manifold. Any advice would be much appreciated. Need to figure this out so i can order the t3 adapter which will be another 100$ on top :/

I think that is quite typical for cheap manifolds since the materiall is usually (if it is stainless) SUS304 alloy. That type of stainless steel bends alot when welding and has alot of tensions on welds. The right material would be SUS321h alloy but then the price would be different (higher).

My own china manifold also had bend flanges so I had to straighten them. Also since I have a hardening oven in my disposal I heated it to 800 degree if celsius for 3 hours to relieve all tensions in welds. In worst case the manifold could crack in use besauce of the tensions.

Nice looking build going on. Keep it coming.:thumbup:
 

1990MA70

Member
Nov 8, 2013
110
0
16
Cochrane, AB
Thanks everyone!

Really excited to get it on the dyno but i'm going to doubt it will make much over 300whp (if at all) untill i can get some bigger injectors and figure out what to do for Piggyback or standalone. Wastegate is a 12 psi spring and the turbo should have a much better flow than stock twins, so hopfully that along with some other little mods will get me over that 300 mark. Also might upgrade to a 60 or 62mm HX40 Hybrid Compressor housing. But for now just getting it running and driving will be enough to make me extremely happy. I was a little dissaponted with the manifold but for 300$ + the 10$ machining i wont complain unless it does crack... Fingers crossed
 

1990MA70

Member
Nov 8, 2013
110
0
16
Cochrane, AB
Manifold is finally back and still isnt great... Also got my t4-t3 adapter. Probably going to end up getting the adapter just welded to the manifold
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Also got the motor out last weekend
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See ya 7m.
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Finally the two together

Plan is to start putting the new motor in this weekend and start on wiring, or maybe even going for an affordable standalone and some bigger injectors. fingers crossed to have this thing shredding tires and breaking necks for the end of May.... Maybe even just getting it around the block by the end of May to be more realistic :nono:
 

1990MA70

Member
Nov 8, 2013
110
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Cochrane, AB
Test fitted the motor, engine brackets are wayyyy off. So after i figure out a clutch, new engine brackets and the power steering (if anyone can help me with PS that would be great ;) ) THEN maybe ill get the motor in and hopefully make some progress again...
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1990MA70

Member
Nov 8, 2013
110
0
16
Cochrane, AB
I think i figured out it was because the engine brackets are for either a jzx90 or a toyota soarer, but (I believe) they sit way higher than the jza70 brackets, So the transmission wont bolt up with the firewall in the way since the motor is sitting up too high. But i could be wrong, however I did move the brackets around as well but the problem became less of how close the back of the motor was to the firewall and more of how high the motor sat. So new motor brackets it is! they look way shorter and sit further back on the block so it should solve the problem. Fingers crossed
 

1990MA70

Member
Nov 8, 2013
110
0
16
Cochrane, AB
Big update today. Finally started to get shit done again.

New motor went in once i got a new clutch disk for my ACT 6 puck
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Connected the two for the first time and had a big grin
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Then rolled the car out for a quick engine bay wash before the motor went it (Gotta keep it clean) :naughty:
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I'm surprised how much the weight of the motor cause the car to squat down, sits wayyyyyy up with all that cast iron beef cakeness out of there

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I went ahead and got the driftmotion engine swap mounts, they work pretty good but the transmission cross member was a liitttllleee tight. Nothing some prying couldn't fix to get it in the right spot
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Lastly got the turbo and downpipe mocked up. For anyone doing a hx35 single turbo on your supra i have one piece of advice if you want to keep your aftermarket 3" downpipe. For those who don't know the HX35 uses a V Band 2.5" I.D. outlet on the exhaust side. The easy fix for me was to cut the flange for the v band off and fit a 3" I.D. V band flange over the existing one and then welding it on or getting it welded on. this means you can use your aftermarket 3" downpipe and it also lets you put some angle on the flange if you have clearance issues when you weld it. If not you will have to likely build a custom downpipe, for me this was much easier and looks really good.

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More coming soon! plan is to get wiring and intake manifold figured out along with the plumbing

If anyone has questions about fitting the Holset hx35 turbo to the 1jz, or any 1jz into ma70 chassis questions, feel free to ask. I've hit lots of snags in this build but seeing it come together makes it all worth it :biglaugh:
 

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gt2jz

New Member
Sep 28, 2009
23
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Chicago
Make sure to take a vid of the first start up!!! And I will definitely be pming you soon as I am doing my first swap and it is a stock 1j into a 90 ma70 (like you except for the stock part) lol
 

1990MA70

Member
Nov 8, 2013
110
0
16
Cochrane, AB
Working on putting it all together and the throttle cable doesn't fit? I got the 2jz-gte throttle cable from driftmotion but its too short and its not much different from my 7m one. Did they send me the wrong cable? I already had to modify the bracket to make way for the wiring harness reroute so no sending it back. if anyone can shed some light on this that would be great