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Sportriderseattle: Chad's right, check for error codes and then post back. Otherwise there are several things you'll be looking at, taking up more time than needed. ChadMKIII: If your mechanic only did the HG, not an engine swap then he shouldn't have had to rewire anything. Either you've...

I'd love to pickup a LC-1 right now.... just can't afford it at the moment. Tomorrow, I'm going to finish cutting down the rest of my intake pipes and try this baby out on the road. Bob, any idea how long its going to be before you can add the fuel pump control for us (well, just me at the...

You both could have the same cause, but it's not a given. I'd check the things I'd mentioned before and then failing that check the ISC... especially in your case bluedragon17. Have either of you made sure you don't have any vacuum leaks?

If you bypass the VSV by rerouting the vacuum lines does the control valve open?

New logged session: Session 3 ADL: http://www.fadingworld.com/Supra/7M-GE%20LS-1%20Datalog1.adl The car seems to be running VERY well. Of course I haven't taken it out on the road with the Maft Pro running yet, but overall everything feels alot smoother than it does with the hacked up AFM...

^^^ heh, I did that for a while. Then I figured out that with the double pulsed lock signal from my alarm turned on it would lock them all the way even on the worst of days. It's just a cheat though, removing friction will help the solenoids last longer too.

Test the AFM and TPS as defined in the TSRM. Check your wires, plugs and cap & rotor, as well. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&Page=94 http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&Page=101

My passenger side used to do that. I used some general purpose moly on all the joints and guides and it hasn't been a problem since.... now I need to do my driver's side.

Can't say I ever thought of the undercover as being much of a hassle.... it's what 9 bolts?

Cool, my VAF is in my car at the moment so I couldn't test it. I just assumed, for (insert name of diety of choice here) knows what reason, that the resistance dropped as the aiflow increased.... I had nothing to base that on, so don't give it another thought. I'm interested in the idea of an...

Okay, I had Aux 1 Mode set to Toyota VAF.... that'd probably explain why it was bouncing back and forth. I just tested it here on my desktop and it did make a big difference. Nothing's connected to it at the moment, but comparing with Aux 1 set and not set the readings reverse for Vout1 and...

V Out 1 and the MAF_Mass Airflow were what caught my eye as well. Where's the data for MAF_Mass Airflow come from? Is that the Maft Pro's calculation? It is possible I f@#$ed up my MAFT Pro when I wired it up. I had V Out 1 briefly connected to VC instead of VS (same color wires, different...

I suspect that if it's nothing to do with load monitoring on VC then it must actually be the fact that the MAFT Pro takes a couple seconds to boot up and supply VS a signal. So I could just feed VS .1v and the code should clear up and it *shouldn't* have any adverse effects on the signal...

Only for the moment. I'm planning on building something regulate it properly, perhaps feed off the TPS' IDL switch.

I'm not completely following, but I suspect you're suggesting something I was thinking of earlier. Lack of draw on VC is causing it to go higher than spec and as such it's throwing a code? If so is this a situation where I could simply supplay a static load on VC and not have to worry about it...

I'm done digging around under the dash until some of this F@@#%$%^$#@%^&@%$ing snow melts!!!! Have I mentioned lately how much I HATE SNOW?! Um, sorry about that. :P I suspect the code might also have something to do with the fact that there's no longer a draw on VC. The TSRM also mentions...

The wiring diagram and setting I currently have configured are all posted in this thread. For the TCCS the Maft Pro's Aux Output 1 supplies the needed analog signal. Which pin is KS? Is that the same as VS? Look at the pinout above for the pre89 N/A ECU pinout I'm referencing. Looking back...

Okay, here's the log: CSV: http://www.fadingworld.com/Supra/initial.csv ADL: http://www.fadingworld.com/Supra/7M-GE LS-1 Datalog1.adl I'm not sure if this just indicates that there are a number of setting changes which need to be made or if there something wrong with some of the hardware...

What grit you use depends on how bad the pitting and scratches are. I've only done it a couple times myself. Start out with 400-800 and work your way up to around 2000 (higher if you can get it). As with just about any sanding your main purpose with the lower grits is to level everything out...

I haven't tried taking them apart before. I suspect they used a heat resistant adhesive or ceramic to bond the glass. The plastic polish is only filling in the pits in the glass. Glass can be polished do a search on Google and you'll find a lot of how to's and polishing compounds and kits...