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Why bother with tearing them apart? I'd build the PCB in segments (4) drop them in and solder in jumpers linking them together.

Are the controls in a sort of upside down "T" configuration? If so the center top part is pressed forward or back to move the seat back.

Check the connectors for visible corrosion, clean them if needed. Then if that fails, test the wiring for continuity. Just looking at the wires won't necissarily tell you if there's a break... plus it's much faster.

Then make two cuts and knock the center chink out. Make the cuts out to the sides as far as you are comfortable with. That way there's as little of the bolt's surface area binding to the sleeve, that should make pounding the ramains out easier.

Have you considered the possibility that your problem may stem from the AFM or it's, admittedly, faulty wiring? 120+? And you know there's something wrong with your car..... I'll let someone else cover that one.

Some codes will throw without running the engine. You should look into the code 24.... unless it's just the by product of running a MAFT Pro or similar.

When you did the HG did you clean out any carbon buildup? If the car was still pumping in fuel that'd probably account for a fair amount of the increase, how much I don't know. Do you know how much material of the head and block was shaved off?

There's only one bracket on the car that those would work on. The others would have to be replaced.

I can't feel mine KICK in... I know it's working there is a difference, but it's not harsh like most owners report.

Does the car run? You might also take a look at the fusible link under the hood... I've seen alot of those corroded to the point where they'd pass just enough current for somethings but not others. If the car runs, forget I mentioned it. Testing for voltage is a start, but it won't tell you...

Well, if you pulled the entire dash I presume you pulled the ECU and disconnected a few junctions as well. Have you checked them out for signs of corrosion on the pins and receptacles? I know it's not much, but I'm drawing a blank on this one. If you hadn't already tried three different guage...

I think the Group A's were a Japan only thing.

Actually, if it's still made you might hit up Jeff.

That'd be the fold out urinal for long road trips. :biglaugh: EDIT: So it also includes a sporty child seat and knee brace???

I didn't think so either... but unless he wants to get a little more specific that's all he's getting from my N/A driving ass.... Actually, I didn't know if maybe it was just upside down in the pic or something. I did think it looked more like an aftermarket product though.

Is that the stock 3000 pipe? Pre89 - 17860-42010 MSRP $142.18

A little credit where it's due.... at least he asked first. I've seen so many fools who'd tear it out cut off the harness and THEN ask why their car isn't running right.

Well, that depends... Are you looking for something that flows better (Lexus AFM) or to switch to a completely defferent system such as a GM MAF or a MAP setup? To switch to something completely different you're going to need a translator such as the MAF Translator or MAFT Pro.

Disassemble the unit and replace the LEDs and the 7 segment numerical display. Seriously, this topic has been very well covered here try a search for specifics. Here's a starting point: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8903...

R154 - 3.2 quarts W58 - 2.5 quarts http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=A&Page=35