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Even if you do go with the GTE electronics, you're probably still going to want some sort of fuel control as well. Just keep that in mind while you decide.

To enable timing monitoring do I just need to remove the pull up resistor? I was informed that timing control on the N/A is going be different than the setup for the GTE. How does it need to be wired?

Thanks Ma70.Ent! There were a number of bumps on the way. The info wasn't all out there as for how to set it up, 4.65 did not actually have all the additions needed to run on a N/A, and I had to work out some of the wiring with Bob and Dr. Jonez that wasn't documented (or in the case of the...

This is a repost of another post I made in one of the other (now insanely long) MAFT Pro threads. This may be handy for some of you who want to sit down indoors and go through all the menus and settings. ---------------------- Just wanted to let those of you without a laptop know that you...

Before you go plugging in the your MAFT Pro and try changing the setting make sure you are running at LEAST version 4.84 on the MAFT Pro. Below is a list of the various setting available in the MAFT Pro. While the only changes you need to make for the initial install are all located in the "CFG...

If you have any questions about the Fuel Pump Relay (FC): EDIT: 6/19/2008 NEW information added! Okay, here's how to make a simple plug in module for the THA signal supply and FC signal connector for use with the MAFT Pro and the stock harness connection for the VAF. Using this you DO...

EDIT: Please post ALL questions, comments and problems HERE. I'm going to post a clean thread with all the info needed to install and setup the MAFT Pro using a LS-1 3.5" MAF with 7M-GE electronics. The LS-1 MAF is more than large enough to feed a N/A without any noticeable restriction. I may...

You might try doing some of that yourself, those are among the most basic tasks and there are instructions readily available online (TSRM - Toyota Service and Repair Manual - it's been scanned is hosted on a couple sites).

Sounds perfect, once things warm up a little around here I'll finish this off and let you know how it works out.

Sweet! Thanks Bob.

It's not just a matter of loosing the ACIS, but also ensuring equal airflow on a low pressure intake. Depending on the design (unless you go through numerous prototypes and flow testing) you're likely to starve some cylinders while others get much more air than expected. Intakes are designed...

That would be the diaphram which is bad in your case.

Why not wire in a relay to the headlights so you can have the amber in the daytime and red at night?

On an N/A you're better off stock.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&Page=77

<rant> Ahhh, myspace.... the internet's collective junk drawer... It's like GeoSh!t!es, but better! You get to reach into other people crap and then show everyone looking at your crap what other crap you've found! Whooohoooo. Oh, and don't forget to friend EVERYONE! That's right you too...

I hope you're planning on pulling the pan out so you can get both surfaces clean... that's not going to be easy with the oil pump in there.

You're best bet is pulling the engine. It's kind of hard to pull the oil pan and clean all the surfaces for the FIPG while it's in the car... possible, but very not fun.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20467

Rofl.... you guys need to hear my car. My muffler got ripped off not long after the blizzard, so I'm running straight 2.5" pipe the whole way. I scare big trucks!!!