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Guess where the security system draws it's power from? http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=Main&Page=122 As for testing, grab a multimeter and test the voltage coming from that circuit (just connect the ground lead on the multimeter to a known, good chassis...

Well, there are a number of things which get power from the 20A Dome circuit, including the dome lights, courtesy lights, the clock, etc. First thing I'd check is the fuse. I should be more specific about the clock. I think the clock may actually run on the voltage from dome circuit and the...

The 20A Dome circuit supplies the red wire running to the CC with a constant 12v, I suspect that's what keeps the setting in the memory. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=Main&Page=140

^^I was wondering about that as well.

No, it's not.

I do prefer a physical serial port. However adapters aren't so bad, it's just a matter of finding a good one and a good driver for it. The one I bought works great using another company's driver. If anyone is looking for one and wants the specifics of what I'm running see my MAFT Pro writeup in...

They're also a great source for parts... for rebuilding a 89+ CC! lol

Well, if you need a new laptop then get one. If this is only going to be used for tuning and logging you might want to see about reinstalling your OS.

Cleaner doesn't fix stripped parts. Besides, his issue isn't that when the button is pressed the CC doesn't respond (at least from what I understood), the buttons aren't latching in the depressed position. Open the CC and take a look at the base of the button actuators. If they're just packed...

You'll probably save money by buying a less expensive laptop and upgrading the RAM yourself. I'd recommend buying additional RAM online (from a reputable retailer such as NewEgg.com). From what I've heard Vista is an absolute pig... so while it would fit in well when paired up with a MKIII, I...

He's got a '90, the silver faced ones are pre89 and as the buttons are prone to peeling they're much less desirable. Where is A-1? Not finding them in Dex. Do they have more than 1 MKIII?

It is possible the switches are clogged with debris. The latching mechanism is external. I've found that more often than not the catch on the plastic actuator is worm down to the point that the spring loaded brass plate has nothing to grab. Either way, you'll need to disassemble the unit to find...

How about a couple current pics of the intake manifold? I'm not convinced the EGR system is even present.

Okay, I've mentioned that one in a few posts in this thread, but it's not what I'm referring to in any of the posts about MarlinCrawler. So you did replace it? Is the new bushing pressed into place?

Good to know, thanks for the info... I guess I'll take care of that little issue next weekend. You mean the seat?

Getting anxious? 10 days left. :naughty:

Today's the first time I was able to log in. EDIT: n/m

You need a drive shaft for the R154, the shaft is different.

Anyone have a pic of the 89+ hood mount holes for the nozzles?

Are you running the stock radiator? It could be a hairline fracture or a leak in the seal between the body and the top tank. I replaced my stock rad when the top tank developed a bunch of hairline fractures... it would sweat coolant at idle, at higher RPMs it would spray in a couple very fine...