Search results

I was just thinking the same thing. Just reread, are you 100% sure it's the ground that's at fault?

The stock pistons are rather robust, even for low boost applications. The only reasons I could think of for swapping them is if they're damaged, you're planning on going N/A-T and want to be able to run a higher boost OR you want to bump up the compression.

Did you check the other parts previously mentioned? (when they're warm)

I dunno... when the time comes that I no longer have to work on it I'll get back to you. :evil2: I do get depressed at not being able to afford to fix everything in one shot.

Well, you lucked out. No snow waiting for ya. :D

Some people have run N/A-Ts with OEM clutches. For low boost levels it'd be fine as long as it is new. I'd upgrade it though.

I can't imaging why you'd use a R154 flywheel.

I'd estimate that perhaps 1 out of 10 have had it happen. It's common enough.

I hear all these stories of how MKIII's are tanks... I'd REALLY like to know what happened to mine in that case. As for the rear seat thing, you might try contacting one of the front clip importers. It's probably something they don't get much call for si it might not cost an absolute fortune.

We know.

Even the type of Y pipe will tell you alot. If it's not the North American version (the type with the 4 bolts and small plate on top) there's no routing for the EGR present. There are a few things which MUST be inplace and not blocked off for the EGR to function.

^^^The track in the mirror bracket is rubber over metal. With a fair amount of pressure you can bend the track back together (so it's just a tiny bit wider than the window) and it'll fix about half of the rattling, also helps ensure the window seals well against the forward weather stripping.

You've got some bad switches, there's one on each cylinder. The switches on the driver and passenger lock assembly should both arm and disarm the theft deterrent system. while the one on the hatch lock just disarms it...

If the lower rear timing plate has to come off, why wouldn't the head have to?

I'm 99% sure someone just got very creative with your car's wiring. Try locking the car from the passenger side. There's a spot on the dash that is labeled "Security", the status LED is right there.

The only thing I can think of would be a fault in the Integration Relay #1, which, as far as I know shouldn't be wired into the lock. The only option left would be some creative wiring with the security switch that is attached to the lock cylinder. Does the stock security system arm and disarm...

What's on the driver's side fender?

I don't use it when I'm getting in and out of the car, but it's my best friend when I'm working under the dash. :icon_bigg

It's a regular old 20A fuse, the 7-11 down the street from me carries them. ;)

Driver's side kick panel.... BTW, it also feeds the stereo memory. I really suspect the fuse is just blown. Try replacing it, even if it looks fine. As for making the car run poorly: I don't think it's connected to anything critical, but a short to ground could possibly cause some minor disruptions.