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Cold Cranking Amps = The amount of amperage a battery can supply for 30 seconds while still maintaining 1.2v per cell. That's 7.2 volts. This rating is generally derived from a NEW and FULLY CHARGED battery... keep in mind that manufacturer's may pad these ratings. If you're driving around town...

Neither is a dry cell. They're both AGM type batteries, sealed lead acid. EDIT: I love how they trademarked "Drycell" for use with this product line. Don't be fooled, it's still a lead acid battery. A rechargeable dry cell would use NiCad or NiMH as the electrolyte, and requires a completely...

lol, yeah. Why feeling desperate for that hose? I'll hook you up. ;)

My '71 SuperBeetle needs more than that on a cold night and it doesn't have one tenth of the electronics my MKIII does... not to mention that there's almost no parasitic draw in the Beetle.

220 CCA at 0ºF and a 24 minute reserve... :icon_conf

I'll trade you for euro turn signals. ;)

I stated that qualifier in my post: Just trying to make sure all the bases are covered, he never did say if that was the case and I never said that it's absolutely not the ignition switch. I only gave him a means of determining what to check first. Oh, and he said if he waits a few minutes it...

hehe, you could paint it.

Set it for the next increment up from what you want. 20K will measure 2.3K accurately enough for your needs.

I bought my 3.5mm hose from HTS. http://www.hightempsilicone.com/ May not be helpful for Kai though. If you use 4mm in place of the 3.5mm be sure to use either small clamps or zip ties to ensure a proper seal.

Yeah, I heard they're inexpensive from the dealer. I think I got my brackets out of a mid 80's Celica.

Cuel, I don't think we're disagreeing. I think he should check the ignition. I merely added that if it's staying on for the exact amount of time, every time, it's unlikely it's the ignition. I've been through what you're referring to and seen it on other people vehicles. It's definitely a...

There's a hole drilled in the drum which opens in front of an adjustment gear. You use a flathead screw driver to move the gear, one direction tightens the brake the other loosens it. I'll see if I can find the TSRM info on it. EDIT...

If it just keeps running for a certain period and that period of time is consistent it's probably not the ignition. Also, keep in mind that while the previous owner may have activated a shutdown timer in the alarm or added a turbo timer to the car doesn't they wired it properly, they may not...

Thanks Jeff, I was was just trying to clarify whether or not that could be from a Cressida.

When did Cressidas get ACIS?

Has the aftermarket alarm been completely removed? Two other places where the disable wire for turbo timers and remote start systems are often located are the clutch starter switch and the e-brake switch.

Never seen a Y pipe on a USDM Cressida, they didn't come with ACIS did the JDM Cressidas? But yeah, that Y pipe isn't for an EGR equipped car.

I'd definitely pickup a decent charger. It's easier than most people think to consume more power than the alternator can supply, or at least enough that you're not replacing what you've used in starting the car and feeding the electronics while the car was off. Also, people tend to not...

The problem is how often he may end up low. Just guessing here, but I suspect you'd probably end up replacing it annually at least. Charging it regularly is probably going to be a must. Oh, and with such a low reserve, you should take some steps to reduce your parasitic loss.