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You have to give it gas to start the car when that's plugged in?

The collant is getting blown out of the overflow tank because: a) it was simply too full b) your radiator cap is venting at too low of a pressure and need to be replaced c) you've got extra pressure getting into the coolant system (exhaust gas or oil) The plug is the cold start injector.

::hang:: Are you guys still talking about this?? :icon_conf I've seen JDM engines with so much rust on the interior that the compression was phenominal... of course the engine was trash. A guy over at SF got a JDM which was apparently someone's project car. The engine had been...

?? TPS sensor? Sorry, your description is a bit vague. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&P=100

If anyone's planning on modding the color this way I would recommend you use lighting gels. They're used with spots and flashes (etc) in theater and photography work. They're very stable and less prone to hue shifts than a lot of other options.

I suppose it would depend on when his AFR is in the 13's.. but yeah, if it's at WOT, :nono: . I never really could understand the use of these things (FCDs). They've always struck me as a disaster waiting to happen. For those of you who still don't quite get what the FCD does, it's...

Jarco's a popular choice. But I would first try posting a want ad in the wanted section of the For Sale group. Adding your location to your profile might help too. ;)

Gotcha, not how I'm planning on doing it. Adding a deep enough tint will dim the display appreciably.

I fail to see how, people's dynos show that kind of difference between two runs in the same session even more so after a few days.

Ahhh, so I wasn't imagining things. ;)

What was "some kind of colored tape"? Is this what you used to change your clock's color?

Just got my car dynoed. It was on a Land + Sea DYNOmite (? I know nothing about this dyno or how it compares to a DynoJet or Mustang). Peak HP = 153.6 @ 5650RPM, Peak Torque 158.5 ft-lb. @ ~3600RPM My AFR is at a pretty steady 11.7 at WOT from ~4000RPM through redline. No, my car isn't tuned...

Well, it's either the wiring or the Door Lock Control Relay. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=090

Okay, I misunderstood. I thought you meant that using the key wouldn't even lock the door you're using it in. So when you go to lock the driver's side door it locks, but the passenger side doesn't?

Most likely a linkage is binding up or bent. If it's bent they can be hell to tweak back so they're "just right", just be patient.

I've taken apart AND reassembled several. The first time it's a bitch. ;) BTW - I have opened a few switches and CC's that were loaded up with oil. It usually makes things worse as time goes on.

:nono: :icon_conf :3d_frown: Well, I would start with disassembling the entire thing, cleaning out all the crap you just filled it up with, then physically cleaning the rocking contacts and other moving parts. Then lubricate only where needed with some moly grease. I used...

Here's a settings and configurations list/worksheet that I've started working on. It may help to give you a basic understanding of some things. http://www.fadingworld.com/Supra/MAFT/Manual%204.80.php This is not going to remain up, at least not in it's current state. There may be errors or...

Here's a starting point: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11783 Once you get it installed go here: http://www.supramania.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=110 and start reading.

The blocked off port beneath the oil filter is not the turbo drain port. The turbo drain port is not drilled out on the N/A block, it's the same shape and it's behind (or left of) the oil filter. The block off path is actually fed from the same galley as the stock turbo feed location.... so...