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We're still waiting to hear which hose... http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291410/catalog.aspx?F=4503&P=1

My boss does everything he can to keep me away from his wife.... No not that. She happens to like MKIII's as much as I usually do and every time I come over and let her take it for a spin he doesn't hear the end of it for weeks. He's threatened to start docking my pay... this...

How about a trade for a restored '71 Super Beetle? :naughty: Okay, well, it was worth a try...

Okay, now let's give the guy a break. He may have assumed that it was something like an A/C line where replacement for a novice can be quite tricky and involved.

Why doesn't Jeff demand I call him in the late hours of the night... :cry: Hey Jeff, want to know what I'm wearing? It's custom. :naughty: Sorry guys. Little demon made me do it.

Oh, wait, I'm not talking about using that port to get an oil pressure reading, but to feed the turbo while leaving the oil pressure sender in the stock location, untouched.

Maybe you can get a bulk discount... I've got two more in need a rebuild. ;)

Stores having things mislabeled? Unthinkable! :icon_razz Yeah, that's probably the case. Although, I wonder what $600 gets you from Champion then?

I'm not debating the validity of your suggestion. I agree completely. That's why I use solid solder and separate liquid flux... just wipe the wire with a small cloth damp with only enough to clean the area to be soldered. If the wire's wet, you've used too much.

The bounce is natural under ~20MPH. IIRC,it's due to the clutch in the speedometer needle's drive mechanism grabbing and slipping... and yes, analogue speedometer do wear out. As for checking the calibration get someone with a newer car (preferably one with an electronic speedometer) to drive...

Naturally, clean connections are crucial to the longevity wiring. While flux/rosin is caustic it's temperature reactive. If you miss a little you're fine, but as a practice try to get as much as possible off. You'll never get it all off, as the wire begins to heat and the flux softens it's drawn...

Labor, tear down rebuild - $120 Looks to be that + whatever else is needed. EDIT: I know you were thinking about an upgraded trim too, I don't know if they do that.

The stock alarm is very easy to integrate with an aftermarket. Look up the details of your after market's wiring and see if it's got provisions for disabling a factory alarm... otherwise, just get a little creative.

MDC: http://www.mdcmotorsports.com/turbo_rebuilding.htm Can't remember any of the other at all right now... :icon_razz

As in heat shrink tubing? Look up a few posts. ^^^

It's not an adjustment screw. There's an armature on the gauge which you use to calibrate it. Keep in mind that this DOES NOT effect the calibration of the odometer and trip meter. EDIT: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?p=270265#post270265

How about from a flange mounted in place of the block off below the oil filter?

Pretty much how I dot it these days. Although I usually pull the pins from the harness and slide some heatshrink tubing down over the union... provides strain relief. Huh, how so? Doesn't require any more solder than soldering two wires butt to butt. As for the added resistance.... stop...

The rubber is molded to the mounting bracket.