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You should be able to drop the GE in and keep the GTE electronics installed. It'll be weaker than a stock N/A, but it'll be easier when you're ready to drop a GTE back in.

No problem. Nice to see another local on here.

Supramacist, keep in mind that everyone starts somewhere. If he wants to learn to be a nuclear service technician by banging around in warheads with a hammer and randomly shutting off coolant lines in a power plant, well, let him. :evil5: MK3head6789, there are definitely easier and cheaper...

Setting and configuration listing and description: For the time being you can find an online copy of a worksheet I have been using to log my changes here: http://www.fadingworld.com/Supra/MAFT/Manual%204.80.php This will NOT remain online for any specific period of time, may contain...

Speed/Density Settings and Configuration -- IN PROGRESS!!!!! Please keep in mind that at this point I have not yet switched over to Speed/Density! These settings may be thoroughly inaccurate. For now consider this information as a mere pointer to get you started in the right direction. VERIFY...

No shit? That sucks. It's fine in Colorado, just has to be disclosed. With all that's wrong with it (especially the cracked cam gears and irreparably leaking cam seals.... those are rather worrisome) I wouldn't pay more then $750... maybe $1000. EDIT: Just looked it up, in Nevada you...

The biggest factors to wafers wearing down very quickly is how fast you insert or remove the keys. Making sure the cylinder is well lubed with some graphite will help. So quit banging your ignition like it's prom night and do like you b/f, g/f and/or spouse prefers and use some lube.

More often than not it's the wafers. If your locks are worn to this point I would recommend you rebuild the locks and get new code cut keys.

I haven't been in a bad accident in a decade. I'll get tapped, it's rush hour and the woman (it's almost always women who hit me) usually seems poor as hell and has a car full of screaming kids... so I let it slide one scratch at a time... until the car looks like crap. The next person who...

Nah, that's not the problem... the turbo's trashed. Might as well send it to me so I can get the metal recycled. ;) The tearing probably started when a hole was made by either a manufacturing defect (bubble), a bur on the underlying pipe, or possibly even something as random as a mouse...

Start here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=101

It's EXACTLY the same as the front plate except for the screw type and size and the part where you have to pull the diff.

Heh, it's been a while since I had to replace those bolts... so what is the correct size? You can't really rag on anyone for this one... plates are one of those things that most owners put on *once* and usually the bolts are already there. It just happens that when I got my car (about 2 years...

Good God.... Well, at least he saw it coming. The metal beam behind the rubber cover is predrilled and tapped for a specific size screw and thread. I think it's something like 6mm or 8mm with a 1.5mm thread pitch. You can get these dirt cheap at Home Depot.

I don't know if it was available in Europe, but I'm pretty sure it was available in Canada.

So it's kind of like driving around on the weekend with the wife in the car? I'll pass. Yeah, as mentioned the SuperMonitor will tell you MPG, but the minute you start modifying your system forget it.

I've been waiting for this. I really need to think about doing ALL of mine and I had thought about this but don't know of anywhere local to go. Having all the details makes it easier to locate a capable shop. So let's have those specs, details and part numbers! Well, I missed it. Got a link?

Well guys, there you go. So, with that settled, what's the purpose of this thread? Personally, I'd put a fully rebuilt 6M in my MKIII before I ever dropped in an unknown like a JDM. Do you plan on rebuilding the 1JZ if you go that route?

Did you contact them about the issues?

Sorry, no. At this point only the MAFT Pro supports the VAF. Also, you'll need to make sure that the 6M's VAF uses the same scale as the 7M-GE's... I am not wholly familiar with MKII's, do they use the same VAF?