Search results

Fouled how? Oil or fuel?

If you're reusing the bolts the car came with at least measure them to make sure they're alright. Personally, I wouldn't go 72lbs on 20yo head bolts, maybe mid to upper 60's. As long as they're within specs though you should be fine.

51 and 52 common? Dunno, never had either myself. Is this a vacuum line? If so it may be part of the vacuum routing for the ACIS. Most of that system is tucked under the intake manifold. If your vacuum lines are bad enough to just fall off, it's time to replace them. ;)...

Are those RHD or LHD lenses?

Ok, then get sleep, then post here: http://www.supramania.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=58

Hate to burst your bubble of red top joy, but the highest CCA Optima claims across their red top series is 800... I suspect you're think CA. ;)

I don't remember the specific range, but the idle is supposed to be in the 1000RPM area with the A/C on. As for the leak could be a gasket, vacuum line (there are some that are hard to see under the manifold) or possibly the ACIS diaphragm.

You would run it with the GTE's electronics: AFM, CPS, Coil Packs, Ignitor and so on. Just don't hook up the turbo, IC, oil cooler. Make sense?

To continue the explanation of this circuit - A comparator operates like a MAP sensor in that it doesn't sit in the middle of the circuit it's monitoring. It just samples from the side. As such, unless there is a strong power surge or water damage, the comparator and the simple components which...

Ditto. If you've got them properly torqued down and they still leak, get new seals.

Think of that as the ultimate in last measures. There are so many other factors which can cause your idle to change that simply adjusting that screw can hide a bigger problem that's just waiting to get worse.

At least neither one says "continue tightening until you hear one loud "confirmation crack"... do not worry this is normal."

Naturally we recommend you support Toyota and the publishers by purchasing a physical copy... then you can burn the Haynes. ;) So did you get everything taken care of?

Pull the distributor and physically verify the timing of both that and the cams and crank. The coolant thing could just be a bad thermostat or rad cap... so start with those and work your way into the lower pits of hell from there.

I'm all for taking as many people with you as possible... but dammit, treat your car well. ;)

Listen to JetJock on this... a rewire can make a HUGE difference.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=070 http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=63

Huh? Personally, I'd start with whatever is in the worst shape.

The remaining possibility if they were new all new is the key's cut order and the condition of cylinder housing.

Have you seriously not seen those before? They're the ultimate baller badge. On the down side, IIRC, they require you to send in your lenses for upgrading.