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Nope no difference. The '89 N/a that was there had a good chassis, the '88 turbo was in a nasty front end collision. They're closed on Sundays! Really sux.

Dunno about finding a wheel, but there were two MKIII's at Colorado Auto & parts. They're off of Santa Fe & Hampden.

How reliable it will be depends on several factors: how well everything was prepped, the shape the block is in, how hard you push it and how often, and how much boost you plan on running. About half the guys who go this route have the whole thing flat out die and the other half are still...

You know what an IC socket is? So you just need one with the right number of pins on each side, cut out the little plastic pieces in the middle and solder each row to the board. Then plug in the display. It's very simple and will raise the display from the board around 5-7mm. EDIT: See my...

Part number is the easiest. Otherwise, but I don't know how accurate it is, the 80A's output lug is apparently a but larger in diameter.

88-92 7M-GTE's had an extra 10A. They were 80A where N/A's were 70A.

Well first off shit like this doesn't help reduce aftermarket parts prices. Perhaps someone else may be inclined to give you a pointer, but it won't be me. Just curious, how do you know it's a N/A alt anyway?

The clock is a VFD, I haven't spent too much time looking for a replacement (they'll be hard to find). I prefer to build a replacement clock with additional features. ;) If you're so inclined I did post up info on the pinout for the VFD... somewhere on here.

Duck Tape... that's right "DUCK" tape. It's gotta be a tha gid stuff, none o' that ducT stuff from China... <grumbles> can't eben spell gid... </grumbles> :naughty: Seriously though, you will need an adapter if you're looking to get rid of the stock air box. My MAFT Pro writeup has the...

BorHor: I think they're cheaper from Kingbright... I'm not sure, last time I ordered them I got a bulk discount. DA04-11PBWA/A is the Common Anode display... that's what you need. I recommend getting some 16 pin DIP IC sockets to install them with, that'll put the display at the same...

Well, that's not how most of the people I've spoken to are doing it... at least not anymore. And yes, it's ghetto. ;) http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24962&highlight=blue+display Kai found a pin compatible replacement module that's available in the most common colors and...

You're making things harder than they need to be doing it this way, and you risk scuffing the faceplate. Take some needle nose pliers and the white pieces seen from the back of the PCB pop right out leaving the front half and the button faces attached to the shell. And yeah, bending all...

Depends on if he wants to make use of the water cooling and oil cooler.

Well, the 100A link is a start, now find the short.

I don't recall him mentioning that he was going to swap is gauge cluster.

Aside from the few plumbing mods needed there is no reason.

Lower compression ratio, no ACIS, taller end gear, less aggressive timing map.

sorry, my keyboard died tonight... on screen sux. try the fusible link first

What type of head gasket was used (OEM or Metal and what brand/model)? Were the head and block machined/cut? There are more experience people here, but I figure I'll help get the basics out of the way.

A couple stupid questions... Have you done a compression test? Were the valve stem seals replaced? Are you using head studs or bolts and at what torque? Also, is the oil wet? Or are the plugs just turning black?