Search results

Want better mileage, throw in a MAFT Pro and run a lean cruise and idle. Swapping out the diff only makes an appreciable difference if at least half your driving is highway. I did see an improvement in my mileage when I swapped in a 3.91, but I think once I get my LC-1 installed with PT...

I've got the steel 1-piece from Jaws. No complaints here... NONE. This is VERY well balanced.

IDL = TPS' idle signal switch... http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx Testing info here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx

Well, it is older... Looks very good though!

The hole, IIRC, is just a weep to direct any leaks away from the electronics. There is a seal on the outside of the shaft housing and then inside there's a bearing with a built in seal between the shaft and the housing. If the outer seal leaks you get oil running down the side of the engine from...

Only until you put new pads on the other wheels. (EDITED.... brain was in reverse. :P ) Poodles is dead on.

I suppose you could be hearing the internal valves opening and slapping shut. I haven't opened one from a MKIII but the one I did open once had rather weak springs on the valves. They relied on the vacuum to close them.

51 is A/C signal and TPS IDL switch. You'll throw a code 51 if you move the throttle plate while the diagnostic is jumpered, or if the IDL switch isn't closing.

A bright CC isn't very distracting, but a bright TEMS display is horrible.

Make sure your ECU is getting a signal from the A/C system, it's supposed to increase the idle on its own.

:nono: The dashpot is not an idle adjustment... I'm glad it works for you, but your dashpot's probably not doing it's specific job if you're using it that way. Projectmk3, have you tested the TPS' IDL switch? Test the TPS as outlined in the TSRM, and set your dashpot back to spec.

Easier than changing a tire... fewer bolts. ;) Removal: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=CH&P=7 Install: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=CH&P=17

So you own a MKIII? :naughty:

Oh, sorry. Must be the exposure, I can see the display elements. At any rate, they look very good. I'm glad someone finally did the two tone arrow buttons, I always thought that might look good.

It'll look a little better if you throw some light window tint in the display lens. Other than that they look very good!

If the fuel relay was what kept clicking on and off and the new AFM fixed it, it was most likely the AFM's FC switch. ;)

Bad FC switch huh?

No, $9 for the can, $130 for the silk screening. ;) And I see NOTHING new or unique about that can.

^^^Haha, CRE who? Pretty busy on my end as well. I posted a thread on the matter I'll see if I can dig it up. BUT, I've only got boards for one model of the Lamp Failure Module, I've seen three variations. If you open it up and it doesn't match the pics in my post take a couple detailed photos...

Nope, if the caps is holding 13lbs, then leave it alone and find the real source of the problem. Is the car over heating at all? It's time to pressure test the system. If the system holds pressure fine then try flushing the cooling system and replacing the coolant. It's possible you're looking...