Search results

I fail to see how not posting the result helps in any shape or form. If I search "code 52" (and yes, I realize the 52 won't work with the built in search, but it would work with Google) this thread will show up. It may be the last one I'll check, but at least it will be complete. Argue against...

Well, does the switch need to be in one position or another to start the car? One side of the switch is going to supply either 12v or a ground. I'd try that first, then knowing which you'll know the next place to check. If it turns the pump on without the key in the ignition then it's...

It's ok... nothing wrong with trying to be sure. Haven't tried using a multimeter to track it? How precisely does this switch effect things? Never guess about someone else's custom wiring... it'll bite you in the ass. Neither would I. ;)

Well, given that I've got a N/A I just drilled and tapped my intake piping for the IAT.... of course some turbo guys have done that too. Otherwise, if your intake piping is steel, you could get a brass plumbing fitting brazed on. My MAFT Pro's in my glove box too. I recommend you make sure to...

No, if you had the relay disconnected it stands to reason it wouldn't make any noise. ;) Oh, and have you checked to see where the hell that switch is wired? EDIT: Actually, the lack of noise at that point helped reassure us as to the source of the buzzing. :D

People have posted about fixing it that way. I did it myself. It's just as much of a pain in the ass... probably worse actually.

It may be worth testing to see how much power is making it to the relay from the battery.

Interestingly enough my keys work in my father's '93 LandCruiser.... now that's bad.

Welcome to hell. :evil2: Do a search for lamp failure module... there's been a considerable amount of info posted about it and a few common problems and how to address them.

Yeah, that's what I was referring to as well. I was thinking that at the Diagnostic box FP might not bypass the resistor and relay, but it does, so either location would have been fine.

Also helps prevent people from finding nothing but posts without answers when searching... or following up with you after 3 years. lol

No, just a replacement key and like many here your hatch lock is worn out and binding up.

Disconnect the Round yellow connector with 4 wires running to it from the resistor/relay. Jumper the Blue w/ black stripe wire and the Black w/ red stripe wire. This will bypass both resistor and relay. Didn't we already do this?

Utter BS. There are certain cut combinations which are avoided to ensure the key doesn't get stuck in the lock though... but not that many and there are more key patterns than 6. If you want to ensure someone's not going to be getting in your car with their key, then get the lock rebuilt and...

I've had this happen. I pulled the gauge and after a little searching I found something had broken between the two. I managed to fix it using parts from another donor that was broken in a different spot. I can't remember the specifics, but there's a part which disconnects the trip odometer...

I wonder if Toyota was sourcing them from a couple different places. I've just about only ever seen all metal units around here. I'm not entirely sure I've ever seen one with plastic tanks, at least not any of the one's I've looked closely at. EDIT: There's really nothing wrong with plastic...

A stocker with plastic ends? Mine was entirely metal, did Toyota change them at some point? Just a reminder, the stock Toyota radiator is rebuildable. ;)

You can't compare the force required to remove old, hardened seals to new ones. As for how much force it should take to install the new ones, I couldn't say other than to point out that such commentary would be rather subjective.

Yup, been off and on for the past couple days. I haven't been able to get on at all since last night though. I guess some people may be looking to buy legit copies soon. Hope it had nothing to do with the recent rash of nooBs telling people they are "dumb" and should just "go here and visit and...

I've got a Koyo JZA70 Aluminum rad and I'm plenty happy.... of course I've only got a lowly N/A.