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Whoa.... you put a multimeter to it. The positive lead connects to Vf1 and the negative connects to E1. Do NOT jumper the two, you could damage the ECU... you may have meant that, but the word "link" makes me think of a jumper. That'd be bad. Just buy a new rotor, they're very inexpensive...

No problem, don't forget, that mine and AJ's don't run either. ;) Woot!

Nope, as I said, the 7M-GE uses a VAFM and the 7M-GTE uses a KVAFM. The differences are pretty well explained in that document I posted the link to. Essentially, the VAF is the most restrictive meter you're going to find. ;) That said, there are ways to swap it out for something more...

The cold start injector is only powered WHILE you're cranking the engine... if it fails you may have difficulty starting, but that's really about it. If it's leaking you may run rich, which the ECU would trim for as much as possible, but the cylinders may see varying amounts of fuel from one...

Well, first off, neither you, nor the Lexus to which you are referring have a Mass Air Flow Sensor. The N/A MKIII uses a VAF (Vane Air Flow) meter and the Turbo MKIII (and the Lexus, never can remember which one(s)) use a KVAF (Karman Vortex Air Flow) meter. There are some huge differences, but...

SAFC II supports Toyota VAFMs. The 7M-GE isn't on their install list, but there are plenty of others that use the same voltage signal (scaling's a bit different due to airflow capacity, but that's academic).

Oh, and I know you've checked the ignition advance timing, but have you physically checked the timing? You know, made sure that when the crank is at 0º (TDC) that the cam gears are and that the distributor's drive gear is also lined up right. Good spark from one plug wire at idle doesn't...

It could definitely be indicative of a BHG... it's not a given, but it is quite possible. The igniter is mounted below the ignition coil... look it up in the TSRM. Vf is a feedback line where the ECU presents data regarding what it's doing, if codes are stored and so on... Look at the link...

Hey sorry you're still having trouble. I haven't been on much lately and haven't really had the energy for the more involved threads (I figured I'd leave it to those with more energy and motivation). Have you tested the distributor and igniter? Have you checked the voltage at Vf both when...

My AFR was around 10.0 to 10.5 at WOT before tuning. I asked how often you floor it... still waiting. Unless you're constantly flooring it I doubt it's all from running rich. I'm still betting on oil. The only place where tuning would effect the issue you're talking about here is at WOT.

Never seen the steel wool and I've had a couple stock exhausts cut to pieces... interesting. As for the frequency of the muffler Valge, it probably isn't a freq. cancellation based muffler in which case frequency is irrelevant. Besides, pseudo-turbo == PURE HOTNESS!!! The stock...

Why not just swap over the ECU, engine harness and sensors from the setup you were already running? But yes, you want to match the ECU, wiring harness and some of the electronics (same version, pre89 to pre89 and post89 to post89).

Same effect? No... Will it lessen the drone? Definitely. Just make sure it'll fit where you want to put it. Don't get me wrong, it will make a considerable difference but the sound between the two is often quite different and it depends on the frequency the resonator is tuned for as well.

From my own experiences it makes for a wonderfully horrible drone through the 2000-2800RPM range on N/As and Turbos alike. Can't stand it... especially while cruising on the highway. I had to buy a bulk pack of ear plugs to deal with the headaches I'm getting from the GTE I'm helping with (of...

Heh, that's what I had tried to explain... :icon_razz They both use some different parts and different clips for others. You need to either swap ECU's (although I don't know if that would be all, never been through it myself) or you'll need to swap the relevant electronics. Off the top of my...

I don't think IJ was referring to you. ;) It does more than just silence the intake... some racing teams spend a fortune on designing and tuning their intake resonators to reduce the fluctuations in the incoming airflow. They do this for reasons other than just noise reduction. The MKIII's...

Agreed, N/A's are much louder and have a lot more oscillation in the exhaust. A cat, a resonator and a good muffler are the way to go if you want the Honda style popping gone.

Search "Helmholtz resonator" on here... there also may be some very subtle benefits to leaving it in place.

But the W58 is so smooth, so buttery and it's light... it's like low-cal margarine only better. :naughty:

You do need airflow data, yes. Speed/Density calculates airflow based on manifold pressue and air temp. It'd give you the room you might otherwise not have... but as I said, there is cost to consider. I run Speed/Density with the MAFT Pro. Not cheap, but it gives me more than just the ability...